proper installation of pavers. I took these photos documenting each step of the process of installing a paver walkway.
Pavers are actually quite easy to install and really only require one tool to be rented, a plate compactor. The heavy work is in excavating the area to about 6 and 1/2 inches below grade and moving the dirt. Then you build up the base with crusherun/crush&run which is a crushed stone. Build it up in 2 layers running the compactor over the area. A homeowner can use a 4 foot level and a 2x4 board to help get the crushed stone base to a proper pitch and close to even. Remember that the base should extend about 6" beyond the last paver.
The exact level surface is then done using 3/4" iron pipes. You will need at least 2 pipes. Lay the pipes across the base and check with a level to see if you have the proper grade. Use a little sand to adjust the pipes. With the pipes set, you begin shoveling the sand into the area and with a straight board, you screed (drag) the sand. You are left with a perfectly level surface of sand. As you move along, remove the pipes and fill the gaps with sand. Remember to not walk on the sand once it is screeded.
For a larger patio, we usually work in sections laying pavers as we go so that we can then work off of the already laid pavers. The
...»
chosen pattern will dictate any cutting. For a few cuts, a grinding wheel on a circular saw will suffice. For lots of cuts or cutting curves on a patio, a large gas powered cut-off saw with a grinding wheel or diamond wheel is necessary. We also use a large sliding table tile saw to custom cut some pavers.
Once the pavers are all laid, install the edging strips. Then, run the compactor over the pavers to bed the pavers in the sand. You will have a perfectly level and smooth paver patio/walk. It does not require setting each paver individually. While compacting, you will sweep regular sand or polymeric sand into the joints. If polymeric sand, follow the manufacturer instructions on sweeping, compacting, and wetting.
See the following photos for the process. As an example of how fast pavers can be installed, 3 of us installed the paver walkway seen in the photos in one day. We followed the same path of an existing paver walkway that was improperly installed. The one day included all excavation and all installation and clean-up.
M10/810 sand will easily sweep into the joints and by wetting it, the sand will settle in. But the problems usually arise over time as ants tend to make joints their homes and an ant mound may appear. Also, weeds can grow in the joints if it is just sand. I have also seen walkways and patios where the sand washes out of the joints during heavy rains. The homeowners routinely have to sweep in more sand. This situation usually can be avoided by controlling excess water runoff in the area.
Polymeric sand is a custom blended sand, and is also available in colors. When this sand is installed and properly wetted, polymers in the sand blend harden the sand mixture. You should have almost no problems with weeds, ants, and wash-out.
As an idea of cost difference of M10/810 sand versus polymeric sand, I will use an example of a 150 square foot area. It will probably only require 100 pounds of sand. M10/810 sand would cost a contractor about $2 when delivered with the bulk sand for the entire project. Two 50# bags of polymeric sand will cost ~$50. Thus, you can see why there are landscapers/contractors who will sweep sand in the joints and pocket the $48 difference. If the area is 300 square feet, there is a $100 difference. We always use polymeric sand in our paver installations.
So, to anyone pricing out paver installations from several companies, make sure the bids are for the same final product. One company may be cutting corners to present a lower price, but the final installation will not be the same as the one installed properly.
THE SAME LANDSCAPER DID A GREAT JOB OF RESODING MY BACKYARD WITH EMERALD ZOYSIA . HE ALSO ADDED A VERY ATTRACTIVE WINDING WALKWAY OF CYRUS MULCH HELD IN BY METAL EDGING THE LENGHT OF ONE SIDE OF MY HOME WHERE GRASS WON'T GROW . MONEY WAS RUNNING SHORT AND A PAVER WALKWAY WAS NOT IN MY BUDGET !
AGAIN THANK YOU FOR YOUR WORDS OF WISDOM .
I;M SORRY BUT I HAVE 2 MORE QUESTIONS [ I GUESS YOU'LL HAVE TO RUN A TAB ON ME ! ] .....1. SOME LEAVES HAVE LEFT A SLIGHT STAIN IN ONE SMALL AREA OF THE PATIO ....WHAT TO DO ? 2. I HAVE BEEN ADVISED TO PUT A SEALER , THIS SPRING , ON THE PAVERS . SHOULD I AND IF SO WHAT TYPE SEALER ?
Ensure you are using pavers that are rated for driveway use.
Along with making sure the chosen paver is appropriate for vehicle traffic, the depth of the ...»
And as I mentioned in the 1st paragraph, concrete for driveways will typically be 4-5 inches thick. With pavers, the total thickness can be 14"-16". The thicker pavers typically used for driveways are 3"+ thick, plus 1" of bedding sand, plus ~10" of compacted base. And if you currently have concrete there, all the extra dirt must be excavated and either moved on site or hauled off. This is why the cost can go up so quickly over concrete.