This is a photo of the recent boiler Combi unit I installed.

This boiler makes both heat for two zones of baseboard and 0ne zone of radiant heat for the house. And makes the domestic hot water for two and one half baths. Cost? $8 grand. Took two days to remove old cast iron boiler and hot water heater, mount on wall, pipe and bleed out the air. Client loves it. Cannot hear it run, is 98% efficient and is warranted for 10 years. Only draw back is they must install a water softener system as the hard water will calcify to quick in the heater area and lower its ability to heat the water in an efficient manner.
13 Comments Displaying 13 of 13 comments
  • Cooper S Ashland City, TN
    WoW!!! pretty costly. Is this the no water tank system??? should one always consider the addition of a water softner system or is it automatically a part of the systems instillation? If the system is adequately maintained, how long will it last and what
  • Home Repair Tutor Pittsburgh, PA

    That looks awesome, great job. If you lived closer and I had to replace my system I'd give you a call. Do you recommend a

  • Jeff C Broadview Heights, OH
    For a moment, I thought this was going to be a picture of a bad installation or someone cutting corners but it looks like this is actually the way it's supposed to be installed. That's a lot of pipes.
  • The cost varies with what your looking to achieve with the unit. They make heating only, or hot water units only and in this case Combi units where they heat both the water for the house heat and for the domestic hot water use. They come with
  • Home Repair Tutor Pittsburgh, PA
    Thanks Woodbridge for the great explanation. Especially the tip about hard water issues with on demand hot water systems. We have hard water and if our existing hot water tank goes I'd like to explore the on demand systems. Thus if we go that direction
  • If you do have hard water, and want the current heater to last longer. Change the sacrificial rod that is within the heater and you will get many more years out of the heater. For those who do not know what this is or where it is. If you look at the top
  • Home Repair Tutor Pittsburgh, PA

    Thanks so much for the great explanation and changing the rod is a great option for us. I've never done it before-do you

  • Home Repair Tutor Pittsburgh, PA

    Out of curiosity I went to This Old House's website because I vaguely remembered watching an episode where they replaced the

  • Could not add much more then that. The only thing I did learn about was the sausage type rod. Not seen or ever heard about them. But great idea as there is normally not enough height above to change out the rod in most basements of older homes.
  • Home Repair Tutor Pittsburgh, PA
    I don't think we have enough room to change the rod without having to cut it. I would have to use the sausage link rod. The TOH video was interesting because he really have to crank on the old rod to loosen it. And that tank didn't even look bad!
  • Its not uncommon to see those screwed on tight. One must remember however, if you have a really old heater, the metal jacket may be weak and the result can be damaging the top to a point that you will need to replace the heater anyway. So be prepared to
  • Home Repair Tutor Pittsburgh, PA
    Good tip on possibly having to replace the heater. If I have to really crank on it I might just call it a day and wait for the tank to just go bad.
  • Ruth James Montesano, WA
    I am trying to replace my boiler at the moment. My husband and I have had no luck understanding different tutorials we have found online. Do you think we should just cut our losses and call a repairman? We have probably done a little damage.
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