and a heat gun. Wrap the end of the pry bar with tape to make it cushioned, just two wraps. Slide the shims in behind the mirror anywhere you can, all the way around until they are snug. Heat the perimeter of the mirror slowly to begin loosening the glue, and periodically check the shims for looseness. Push the shims in as the mirror releases. Work from one side or top down. When the shims are all the way in, double em up. Be careful not to over heat the mirror, and don't get anxious and try to point the heat gun behind the mirror. Slowly does it. One more thing, the pry bar noted above is only for light prying to get the shims farther in as the glue begins to release, I suggest only using it if you must. Remember that the glass will most likely fly in the direction that you are prying...straight back at you, so if you hear any pops or a cracking noise, immediately stop applying pressure and slow down. This process works, I have three in tact, re-usable 3 foot by 8 foot mirrors in our garage, but we have been lucky and I know that sometimes you lose em', so be careful. A guitar wire or band saw blade can also be helpful. Put it behind the mirror and use two people to pull the wire/blade down behind it, working it in a small sawing motion. A mirror that size is heavier than you think, so make sure you have two people who are ready to "catch" it when it releases. Once removed, you will not be able to remove the adhesive on the back of the mirror because it will remove the reflective silver, and the adhesive is usually a thick, black asphalt glue. Be prepared for wall damage repair, as well. Then you have the issue of cutting the mirror. It can be done on a DIY basis, but you may break it after going to all the trouble of removal, or then face the problem of trying to get a large sheet mirror to a shop to have it cut. Having two smaller mirrors is certainly an option, but unless you're ready for a time-consuming, somewhat dangerous and tedious project, I would just frame it.

I've also cut said mirrors. It is surprisingly easy and kind of fun!

Link to that post: http://www.sawdustandpaperscraps.com/2011/0...

Good luck!

use craft paint so can change often with seasons or when I am tired of it.

lies flat against the mirror. I put lipstick on the clips and pressed the molding against it to mark their position. Unfortunately, we had put our frame together first, and the corner braces interfered with this plan. If you put the pieces up individually, this should work. :)

Once you have your grease mark where you will be placing your straight edge on, Using kerosene dip the New glass cutter in it and also take a small paint brush dipped in the liquid and run it where the cutter will be cutting. This lubricates the cutter and helps keep the glass cooler. This will prevent the cut mark from running off of the line when you bend the glass to separate the sections. Only run cutter once and along the entire cut as well. Do not stop midway to adjust where your standing to finish. That stop will be all that is needed to cause the glass cut to fail.

Once done be sure to dip the cutter again in the kerosene and place it back into the holder it came with. A cutter can be easily damaged if the cutting wheel impacts to another hard surface literately ruining it in just one bump.

other side and with the bottom and 2 sides secure you can safely remove the tops clips and frame the top. That is how I would do it so as not to risk breaking the mirror or injuring yourself. It is much easier to frame the mirror while it is up rather than try to take such a big piece down...Good luck!!