Can you help me refinish this table top?

Fornby's Furniture Refinisher will dissolve the top coat, but leave the stain. Easy to use.

I agree, that's a great brand- Good luck!!!

Careful with that one. It's not a solid top. Veneers and inlays are very thin and can lift when stripped.

Forby's would be fine if you work fast and don't let it sit on there too long or put too much on. Personally if it was my table I would opt out of harsh chemicals.

You can remove the fogged moisture rings and spots with methods in this link: http://www.rd.com/home/cleaning-organizing/how-to-remove-water-stains-from-wood/

And then I would hide multiple scratches by rubbing walnuts over minor scratches OR using Old English scratch remover (which is just stain deluded with furniture oil) over the whole table. Finish with Liquid gold and that table will look like an estate piece!

Thanks for this! I will pour another coffee and check out that link. :-)

Hi Neighbor!

Yes, You can use varnish (there are satin and gloss finishes) or a Polyurethane.

No it's a brush on coating but here's a good article and vid to help you decide what finish may be best for you.

http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/skills-and-know-how/painting/whats-the-difference-between-polyurethane-varnish-shellac-and-lacquer

No it's a type of finish. This should help you decide which finish is best for your application.

http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/skills-and-know-how/painting/whats-the-difference-between-polyurethane-varnish-shellac-and-lacquer

If this won't post the link go to the DIY Network and search "What's the Difference Between Polyurethane, Varnish, Shellac and Lacquer?"

Formby's is an excellent product for this, providing its used correctly. It is a combination of several strong solvents, acetone, lacquer thinner, etc. It evaporates very quickly, and should be poured out a few ounces at a time into a shallow bowl. Dip OOOO ( pronounced 4 ought ) grade steel wool pad in Formbys, then begin rubbing in small circles. You will see the finish dissolve quickly. Wipe away with paper towels or rags. Repeat this step in a pattern, trying to blend the edges of the swirl marks together as you go. After you've removed the finish, start over with clean steel wool pad and solvent, and wash larger areas of the table top, wiping as you go. Do not allow the veneer to become saturated with solvent. Let the steel wool and Forby's do the work, no hard rubbing is necessary. After you've washed the table top completely clean of old finish and solvent, the swirl marks should be gone, and you should have a residual "tea" colored stain, which you can lighten or darken as you wish. Sealing the surface ca be done in a number of ways, depending on how and where it will end up in use, but wait 24 hrs between stripping/staining, and sealing. There's an ultimate hard protective coating not mentioned above, epoxy. It's expensive compared to the others, but is almost indestructible. If you're considering this, Marine epoxy is the clearest after drying. West System can be found at most marine supply outlets.

A final word of caution. Formby's MUST be used only in a well ventilated area, the fumes will knock you unconscious, no joke. Not to be done in the house with the windows closed. Wear a respirator and eye protection, and chemical resistant gloves. Have fun, be careful, good luck.

Let me know how it comes out.

You could always just prime, paint it and seal in polyurethane as well. That's the direction I would go with it, it if it were me.

First, if you don't smoke find a friend with an ashtray. Take a soft cloth and wipe the ash gently into the white spots. You'll be amazed how quickly it takes the water stains out. That inlay is only fractions of an inch deep. If you choose to sand, do it very carefully.