Help! How can we heat our master bathroom?

Lastarrh
by Lastarrh
Our master bath was built unto the out side brick of the house. The room is ice cold and unusable in the winter, because of the lack of insulation and the marble floors. Has any one had experience with in-wall heaters ? Or piped in insulation ?
Eventually we will have to take out the vanity and frame in that wall with insulation, and drywall. Just wanted a "get by " solution. Portable heaters aren't enough icon
  17 answers
  • William William on Feb 05, 2017

    Do you have any heat going into the room? What kind of heat do you have? Is there a blockage, did something get disconnected, or are vents closed? An electric in wall heater is nothing more than a portable heater designed to be mounted in the wall. They do have a higher wattage heat output and are thermostatically controlled. Some are 120V and some are 220V. They do tend to be quite expensive but serve the purpose. Throw rugs on the floor would help dampen the cold floor. Too bad you don't have under floor heat. When you do plan to frame the wall, use foam polystyrene board for insulation. Higher R rating insulating than fiberglass. Less chance for mold and mildew growth. Seal any joints with spray foam.

    • Lastarrh Lastarrh on Feb 05, 2017

      Thank you that was very helpful. We realize the wall heater is similar to the portable ones, but wanted a higher output. There is heat , forced air) coming from under the floor ( o crawl space there).. but by the time it gets to the bathroom it is cool 😟. Had the heater and ducts checked and cleaned after we moved in.. supposedly no problems there.

      Thank you so much for the advise for the insulation... we may be doing it sooner than later. Throw rugs are on order 😉

  • Larry shriver Larry shriver on Feb 05, 2017

    I had tenants who complained that their bathroom was a little chilly in the Winter, ( brick house and bathroom abuts exterior, also) so I installed a ceiling fixture which contains 2 heat bulbs. Installed, it fits almost flush. It is necessary to run a new wiring circuit to complete the installation, to eliminate the possibility of current overload. I did the work myself, and with all the new parts, it was probably less than $50. I now live in the apt. myself; and whenever I want a little extra warmth, I just flip the switch. Those 2 heat bulbs do make a difference !

    You can buy kits from Menards (and probably other places) which allow you to spray foam insulation into your walls. All you would need to do is bore a few holes in your interior walls, and spray the foam insulation in, and then patch the walls......would save you having to tear out your walls, and all the mess.

    You could use throw rugs on your floor.............just make sure they have a rubberized coating on the back to prevent slipping. Good Luck......

  • Ljgordon Ljgordon on Feb 05, 2017

    I don't know how the set up is inside the bathroom, however, I would take one wall at a time, remove the sheetrock, insulate, and recover. I found that my upstairs shower was installed before insulation was installed. I removed the sheetrock, pushed insulation down between the studs and re-sheetrocked. I live in an old restored farmhouse, so I keep one the oil filled heaters that look like old radiators in the bathroom and keep the doors closed. One of the best things I did was to put a radiant infloor heating system mat down before I put tile down. I then insulated from below. The floor is always warm. It uses very little electricity and is thermistatically controlled. The company's name is Warmly Yours.

    • Lastarrh Lastarrh on Feb 05, 2017

      thank you, good suggestions... we want to eventually do radiant mats...but since the tile floor was new just before we moved in... it is hard to convince ourselves to redo just yet.. one other issue... it has a cathedral ceiling to match the roof line ... that is why the heaters are ineffectivE.

      i see us starting over with the bathroom next summer... love older homes, and inadequate builders.... well I really do love older homes

  • William William on Feb 05, 2017

    Another thing that can help is insulating in between the floor joist in the crawl space if there is none. Also insulating the ductwork would keep the heat from radiating.

  • Lastarrh Lastarrh on Feb 05, 2017

    Thanks, i did not know that there was "do-it-yourself " spray in foam

  • Scott Scott on Feb 05, 2017

    Assuming the marble floor is solidly down, maybe a tile contractor could put down heat mats on top of it and cover them with another layer of tile. Less mess than ripping everything out and starting over. Some foam board and a layer of drywall over the brick would help, too, unless making the wall effectively thicker isn't an option.

  • William William on Feb 06, 2017

    I do not recommend the spray foam kits for the DIY! They need to be properly installed and not in sealed cavities. You can't just drill holes and pump the chemicals in the walls. The expansion process produces off gassing. Even the packaging states "for professional use"..... A lot of horror stories...... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Hh5MYv7lWc

  • Jay Jay on Feb 10, 2017

    Cathedral Ceilings need a remote controlled Ceiling fan! Heat rises! Or you can put in a flat false ceiling with plenty of light weight insulation on top of the panels. They may even make insulated false ceiling panels. I know the cathedral ceilings are beautiful, but you're freezing your rumps off!

  • Lastarrh Lastarrh on Feb 10, 2017

    we have one, and use it, but not that helpful.. along with the wall insulatio, we are probably going to drop the ceiling as you suggest. You are right, it is light and airy, but not worth the cold bums 😉Thank you

  • Dfm Dfm on Feb 10, 2017

    your portable heater may not be big enough for the size of bathroom. my breeze way has a heat duct, and cold air return- and it's about 10 to 15 drerees colder than the house. tried a smaller portable heater - it could not keep up. there is no insulation in the walls. the walls are covered in 1950's solid wood paneling. all windows shrink wrapped.


    found a portable radiator at a local big box store. it's working like a charm. dries mittens nicely too. it gives off a nice even heat... unlike portable elerctric box heaters that cycle on and off.

  • Dfm Dfm on Feb 10, 2017

    another thought.....for our out door pets we used heat lamp bulbs- they fit a standared light socket. you might try one in an overhead fixture.

  • Fru-gal Lisa Fru-gal Lisa on Feb 11, 2017

    If you have any incandescent light bulbs, those will give off heat. Put in the biggest wattage your light fixture will safely hold (there should be a label on the socket to tell you) and keep the lights burning a while. This will supplement whatever other heater(s) you have in there.

    I think a large electric radiator would be my choice as well, along with a thick rug on the marble tile floor.

  • Sarah A. Victory Sarah A. Victory on Feb 11, 2017

    Contact someone in the business that will give you a free estimate. You surely don't want more of a problem. That bathroom doesn't sound like it was permitted and up to code--just an educated guess. I would be concerned about frozen pipes in the winter time and water damage in Indiana. Best of luck to you!

  • Lastarrh Lastarrh on Feb 11, 2017

    Thanks for the suggestion... we are making sure the pipes are fine through all this.

  • Claude Claude on Feb 11, 2017

    I just read about this. ..a very crafty woman coiled up some of those Christmas lights in a tube made for indoor/outdoor USC approved and wove them on the underside of a rug. Over time they worked as a night light and threw out a surprising amt of heat..and if your feet are warm, so is your body.

    ive been Using them Under my seedling trays for years as a heating mat.

  • Marlene Jekubovich Marlene Jekubovich on Feb 19, 2017

    Electric blankets, turn on before heading to bed to heat the sheets up