Hello Walter, Vinegar should do the trick! Soak the brushes overnight in vinegar (hot vinegar may help too) and wash the brushes thoroughly under tap water the next day. However, I would suggest you replace the brush, because even after all the paint is removed it may not produce results like a new brush would. Another tip to save your brushes in between paint jobs, is by wrapping your paint brush in plastic wrap and storing them in the fridge, you may never have to deal with a dried up paint brush ever.
As Yamini said, you can clean the brush out how she mentioned, using a wire brush will help as well. In the end, Yamini is also right about going to buy a new brush. In the end, the old,cleaned brush will never be the same.
Putting the brush in plastic and then in the freezer is a good tip if you are using oil paint
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(and plan on using the brush again very soon, don't leave it in there for many days on end). Don't put a latex brush in there, the water in the latex will freeze, then you just have a stylish ice cube on your hands. The oil paint will get a little stiff, but won't actually freeze. Better for storing a latex brush very short term without washing it is to put in in a can that has an inch or so of the paint inside it. Cover the top of the can with plastic. Make sure to wrap it very tightly, especially around the handle of the brush. Use tape to hold the plastic in place. This will keep the brush and paint from drying out.
Unfortunately the vinegar trick did not work. I soaked the brush in hot vinegar for an hour (with short breaks to heat it up in the microwave) but no softening was apparent. I bought some Kwikeez Brush Cleaner, put it in there for 30 minutes and gently combed the paint out of the bristles with an old steel brush. The paintbrushes are as soft as when I bought them!
New brushes are fairly cheap at home stores, Walter.
But, it sounds as if you have matters well in hand, now. I understand CLR is dynamite on brush cleaning also.
Next time you paint, dip your brush in the appropriate thinner (mineral spirits (oil-based finishes and varnishes), denatured alcohol (shellac or shellac-based primers), lacquer thinner
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(brushing lacquer) or water(latex / acrylics)) to condition your brush before dipping in your finish/paint and it will keep the solids from wicking up to the top of the bristles.
(Appreciate all your gardening help over the years)
Walter, that is good to know. Thanks for the tip on the Kwikeez. When I have accidentally left out paintbrushes or otherwise ruined them, I have just called it a loss and tossed them, but I hate to toss anything, so it's good to know that works. And James, that is a cool tip, as well. Thanks.
Here is my best kept secret. . . Dawn Power Dissolver. It is available at Walmart near the dish soaps and cleaners. For situations like yours, saturate the bristles and
work it in as best you can. Wrap it in plastic and let it sit overnight. Then, use the wire brush like Dan recommended and lukewarm water. (The warmth of the water helps because latex will expand) It has saved me on the occasion when I have forgotten a dirty brush that was left in my car
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to bake.
BTW, this stuff is also my first emergency measure for getting latex paint off of clothing, fabrics and a vast assortment of other surfaces. . . occupational hazard. . . ask me how I know!!! LOL
Helpful Hint: A great deal of paint is required to "load" or fill up a paint roller. At the end of the day, if you aren't finished, you don't need to wash it out. Instead, mist it lightly with water, wrap it tightly in plastic or even a grocery bag. Then slide it into a tennis ball can or a Pringle's can. Put on the cap and place it in the refrigerator. In the morning, just slide it back on the roller and you are good to go. Less wasted paint, less paint in the environment and less
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mess.
(On occasion, I have been able to push as long as 2 days depending upon the quality of paint that is being used)
BTW, this is for water based products, I don't use solvent based products any more.
Good Luck!
As Yamini said, you can clean the brush out how she mentioned, using a wire brush will help as well. In the end, Yamini is also right about going to buy a new brush. In the end, the old,cleaned brush will never be the same.
Putting the brush in plastic and then in the freezer is a good tip if you are using oil paint ...»
But, it sounds as if you have matters well in hand, now. I understand CLR is dynamite on brush cleaning also.
Next time you paint, dip your brush in the appropriate thinner (mineral spirits (oil-based finishes and varnishes), denatured alcohol (shellac or shellac-based primers), lacquer thinner ...»
(Appreciate all your gardening help over the years)
work it in as best you can. Wrap it in plastic and let it sit overnight. Then, use the wire brush like Dan recommended and lukewarm water. (The warmth of the water helps because latex will expand) It has saved me on the occasion when I have forgotten a dirty brush that was left in my car ...»
BTW, this stuff is also my first emergency measure for getting latex paint off of clothing, fabrics and a vast assortment of other surfaces. . . occupational hazard. . . ask me how I know!!! LOL
(On occasion, I have been able to push as long as 2 days depending upon the quality of paint that is being used)
BTW, this is for water based products, I don't use solvent based products any more.
a vessel containing a solution of 1 part washing
soda, dissolved in 3 parts water. Do not immerse
the butt of the brush in the solution. Allow to re-
main in the solution several hours. The paint will ...»
become so soft as to be readily washed out wilh soap
and water, no matter how hard it has become.
Kerosene oil is an excellent medium in which
to clean brushes which have been used in paint, or
varnish. Also to keep brushes soft, immerse the
bristles in this liquid. The bristles will remain
soft and pliable, whereas, benzine used for the
same purpose tends to make them harsh.