I had a nut sedge infestation several years ago. I'm not sure if it came from the bagged garden soil, the mulch, or the soil surrounding the purchased perennials. You must pull it; and do NOT compost it! Nut sedge likes freshly turned soils. If you are vigilant for a year or so, you should be "sedge-free".
A combination of cultural, mechanical and chemical control methods has the best chance of effectively managing nutsedge.
Cultural Control:
Nutsedges thrive in moist areas and their presence often indicates that drainage is poor, irrigation is too frequent, or sprinklers are leaky. Once established, however, they will tolerate normal moisture levels or even drought.
Nutsedge tubers are spread by cultivation and introduced in topsoil and nursery stock. They can persist in the soil for years. Learn to recognize nutsedge to avoid accidentally bringing it in on newly purchased sod, topsoil, or plants. Be sure to thoroughly clean tools and equipment such as tillers that have been used in an infested area to avoid spreading tubers and rhizome pieces.
Give turfgrasses a competitive advantage by following all recommended practices for the lawn species including mowing at the ideal height, applying fertilizer at the proper rate and time, and maintaining the ideal soil pH. Proper irrigation amounts and timing are especially important, since excessively moist soil will encourage the growth of nutsedge. Monitor and manage insect and disease infestations to avoid thin, bare areas that may be overtaken by nutsedge.
Mechanical Control:
It is possible to eliminate very small patches of nutsedge by digging. Dig at least 10 inches deep and at least eight to ten inches beyond the diameter of the aboveground leafy portion of the plant. This will ensure removal of the spreading tubers. This is best done early in the spring, before more tubers are produced.
Chemical Control:
Nutsedges can be controlled chemically with postemergence herbicides. Because different herbicides are effective against different species, it is important to correctly identify the nutsedge to be controlled. Herbicides also vary regarding the desirable plants they can be safely used around without causing damage. Always check the label to make sure the pesticide you choose will not damage desired plants.
Apply herbicides when nutsedge is actively growing in warm conditions with adequate soil moisture. Water the lawn the day before spraying to help protect the turfgrass and to assure that the weeds are actively growing (so they will better take up the herbicide). Applications during droughty conditions or when the nutsedge is not actively growing may result in poor control. Avoid applications during hot or dry weather (> 90 °F) to minimize the chances of injury to the turfgrass. Follow the instructions on the product label for the most effective application rate and procedure.
Avoid mowing before a postemergence herbicide application to allow for adequate foliage to absorb the herbicide. Also avoid mowing for two days after application to allow enough time for the plant to absorb and move the herbicide down to the tubers. The length of time to allow before and after mowing varies with the product. Always read the label for specific instructions.
Bentazon: Bentazon (the active ingredient in Basagran T/O and Lesco Lescogran) is labeled for use on fescue, bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass and other turfgrasses. It should not be applied to any newly seeded or newly sprigged turf until after it is well established. Rainfall or sprinkler irrigation within eight hours of application may reduce the effectiveness.
Imazaquin: Imazaquin (the active ingredient in Image Nutsedge Killer) is recommended for use on centipedegrass, zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass, and bermudagrass lawns. For best weed control, the application must be followed by one half inch of irrigation to wash the active ingredient into the shoot/root zone. Repeat application may be necessary in 3 to 5 weeks for complete control. Do not apply Image Nutsedge Killer to newly seeded or newly sprigged turf and do not apply during periods of slow growth. Furthermore, due to its preemergence activity, treated areas cannot be seeded or over-seeded for six weeks.
Halosulfuron: Halosulfuron (the active ingredient in SedgeHammer, Hi-Yield Nutsedge Control, and Monterey Nutgrass Killer) is effective against both yellow and purple nutsedge. These products require the use of a nonionic surfactant (such as Southern Ag Surfactant for Herbicides or Hi-Yield Spreader Sticker) at 2 teaspoons per gallon of water, and treatment may need to be repeated in 3 to 4 weeks for complete control.
Sulfentrazone: Sulfentrazone (one of the active ingredients in Spectracide Weed Stop Weed Killer for Southern Lawns Concentrate, and in Spectracide Weed Stop for Lawns Plus Crabgrass Killer) is faster acting on nutsedges, but may require a second application. The latter product with crabgrass killer may only be used on fescue, zoysiagrass and bermudagrass.
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https://www.ortho.com/smg/goART3/Howto/nutsedge-nutgrass-prevention-weeds-lawn-ortho/32200041
I had a nut sedge infestation several years ago. I'm not sure if it came from the bagged garden soil, the mulch, or the soil surrounding the purchased perennials. You must pull it; and do NOT compost it! Nut sedge likes freshly turned soils. If you are vigilant for a year or so, you should be "sedge-free".
You can purchase a" nut sedge" product at a Lowes or Home depot. It needs to be sprayed on before the nut sedge begins to come up. Good Luck
A combination of cultural, mechanical and chemical control methods has the best chance of effectively managing nutsedge.
Cultural Control:
Nutsedges thrive in moist areas and their presence often indicates that drainage is poor, irrigation is too frequent, or sprinklers are leaky. Once established, however, they will tolerate normal moisture levels or even drought.
Nutsedge tubers are spread by cultivation and introduced in topsoil and nursery stock. They can persist in the soil for years. Learn to recognize nutsedge to avoid accidentally bringing it in on newly purchased sod, topsoil, or plants. Be sure to thoroughly clean tools and equipment such as tillers that have been used in an infested area to avoid spreading tubers and rhizome pieces.
Give turfgrasses a competitive advantage by following all recommended practices for the lawn species including mowing at the ideal height, applying fertilizer at the proper rate and time, and maintaining the ideal soil pH. Proper irrigation amounts and timing are especially important, since excessively moist soil will encourage the growth of nutsedge. Monitor and manage insect and disease infestations to avoid thin, bare areas that may be overtaken by nutsedge.
Mechanical Control:
It is possible to eliminate very small patches of nutsedge by digging. Dig at least 10 inches deep and at least eight to ten inches beyond the diameter of the aboveground leafy portion of the plant. This will ensure removal of the spreading tubers. This is best done early in the spring, before more tubers are produced.
Chemical Control:
Nutsedges can be controlled chemically with postemergence herbicides. Because different herbicides are effective against different species, it is important to correctly identify the nutsedge to be controlled. Herbicides also vary regarding the desirable plants they can be safely used around without causing damage. Always check the label to make sure the pesticide you choose will not damage desired plants.
Apply herbicides when nutsedge is actively growing in warm conditions with adequate soil moisture. Water the lawn the day before spraying to help protect the turfgrass and to assure that the weeds are actively growing (so they will better take up the herbicide). Applications during droughty conditions or when the nutsedge is not actively growing may result in poor control. Avoid applications during hot or dry weather (> 90 °F) to minimize the chances of injury to the turfgrass. Follow the instructions on the product label for the most effective application rate and procedure.
Avoid mowing before a postemergence herbicide application to allow for adequate foliage to absorb the herbicide. Also avoid mowing for two days after application to allow enough time for the plant to absorb and move the herbicide down to the tubers. The length of time to allow before and after mowing varies with the product. Always read the label for specific instructions.
Bentazon: Bentazon (the active ingredient in Basagran T/O and Lesco Lescogran) is labeled for use on fescue, bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass and other turfgrasses. It should not be applied to any newly seeded or newly sprigged turf until after it is well established. Rainfall or sprinkler irrigation within eight hours of application may reduce the effectiveness.
Imazaquin: Imazaquin (the active ingredient in Image Nutsedge Killer) is recommended for use on centipedegrass, zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass, and bermudagrass lawns. For best weed control, the application must be followed by one half inch of irrigation to wash the active ingredient into the shoot/root zone. Repeat application may be necessary in 3 to 5 weeks for complete control. Do not apply Image Nutsedge Killer to newly seeded or newly sprigged turf and do not apply during periods of slow growth. Furthermore, due to its preemergence activity, treated areas cannot be seeded or over-seeded for six weeks.
Halosulfuron: Halosulfuron (the active ingredient in SedgeHammer, Hi-Yield Nutsedge Control, and Monterey Nutgrass Killer) is effective against both yellow and purple nutsedge. These products require the use of a nonionic surfactant (such as Southern Ag Surfactant for Herbicides or Hi-Yield Spreader Sticker) at 2 teaspoons per gallon of water, and treatment may need to be repeated in 3 to 4 weeks for complete control.
Sulfentrazone: Sulfentrazone (one of the active ingredients in Spectracide Weed Stop Weed Killer for Southern Lawns Concentrate, and in Spectracide Weed Stop for Lawns Plus Crabgrass Killer) is faster acting on nutsedges, but may require a second application. The latter product with crabgrass killer may only be used on fescue, zoysiagrass and bermudagrass.
Read more here:
http://www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic/pests/weeds/hgic2312.html
The best is to pull it out! Good luck!