I have some ideas but what would you do with these pieces?
by
Erica Martin
+21
The first piece will most likely be sold. I find myself struggling with picking a color to paint it. I always want to go bold but wimp out and go neutral for fear of narrowing the buying pool too much.
You can read more details in my blog post...
http://www.forthelloveofdecorating.blogspot.com/2014/02/trash-talkin-tuesday.html
You can read more details in my blog post...
http://www.forthelloveofdecorating.blogspot.com/2014/02/trash-talkin-tuesday.html
13 answers
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Erica, you should check out my post 'Dilemma Solved'. I have almost the exact cabinet, that I gave a make-over. Maybe it will give you some ideas.
Margita
on Feb 22, 2014
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I wish you had taken a picture with the doors open - I can't see if there are shelves or what exactly. I would paint it a neutral probably gray with a dark wax on top to highlight the basket weave. I would make it into a foryer key-catcher with lamp piece or a bar piece.....it would make a great one for a young couple in an apartment. I would also take off the hardware and paint it a dark bronze. The box - oh gosh - there are so many things you can do with it. Set vining plants inside on a porch or put casters on it and put kid's toys in it or LPs - dog toys - any number of things.
Kitchen Kelli
on Feb 22, 2014
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As for the first item, I would paint it a cream with a dark wax mainly because a neutral color can be bought to go with any color decor. As for the second piece, I would attach a solid bottom and attach casters. I would paint it and line it with a fold out over the top edges in a beautiful color combination. You might want to try that white "French" look that is so popular now. They make fabrics with the "French dish towel" look as well as printed with French figures, like "the Tower". Or perhaps Navy with a plaid or check lining! This would be great in a den for toy or magazine storage, or to put those throws and extra pillows in.
Jeanette S
on Feb 22, 2014
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I like the idea of painting most of that first one, but leaving the inserts natural, or even sand the inserts, so you can lighten them.
Marilee H
on Feb 22, 2014
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Paint it black.
Cindy
on Feb 22, 2014
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I love this piece what ever color you decide to paint it a few hints. When painting the basket weave to get even coverage use a small paint brush and with a little paint and paint in small circles. This way you get even coverage. It won't build up and you won't have to chip it out because you put on a heavy coat, I also wouldn't use aging wax on the bracket weave but around everything else. Around the sides and edges but not in the weave it's self. I wouldn't paint it a real dark color. A gray and a white wash would be pretty and do a white wash inky on the weave,
Sherrie
on Feb 23, 2014
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You got some great advice here so far, specifically from (and I don't mean to exclude or ignore anyone!) @Kitchen Kelli and @Sherrie - those are great pointers. I'm a professional contractor (in NJ also!) and painting is my bread and butter, my strongest specialty. I've alo done several furniture makeovers and refinishing of old but beautiful pieces like your first piece there. I've refinished and re-stained sometimes and other times I've killed the stain and painted. There are people/companies who do furniture refinishing specifically so they may know more about it, but I've had a lot of success with my techniques. SO.. that being said, I'll throw an idea out there: MY IDEA: If you want to sell it you've got the right idea about keeping it neutral (color wise) to broaden the buyer market. That concept is very popular with realtors I work with when we prep homes for sale. So, MY humble advice would be to do the following, with the following products. Benjamin Moore's "Advance" product is absolutely fantastic. It's indicated specifically for cabinets. It is an "oil-suspended-in-water" type of coating and other manufacturers make similar products like this. THE APPEAL: soap-and-water clean-up of tools (really just warm water works) but the product dries to an extremely durable, oil-paint-like finish - the kind of durable coating you want on furniture. I've used "Advance" on kitchen cabinets, on trim, and on furniture. It's very versatile and it has a long "open time", which means it dries slowly so 1) you have to be careful: watch closely for drips and sags which is why you should use thin coats but 2) that meticulous attention to detail is worth it because the long dry time means the paint levels (smooths) before it dries, removing the appearance of brush strokes. Enter @Sherrie and her advice about using a small brush with a small amount of paint: great tip, and critical - she knows her stuff. "Advance" is available in any color (I would go with a bright white or a dark black, but that's completely subjective) and comes in finishes of Satin, Semi-Gloss and High-Gloss. Personally I think a High-Gloss finish would look great on this piece (again, subjective: completely up to you). Before you paint, you'll need to kill (seal, block) the stain - I would do so with 2 coats of a quality oil primer. Here are the steps I would take: DIY PAINTING TIPS FOR THIS PIECE: 1) It has to be sanded down, obviously. In addition to the stain there is probably (dare I say 'definitely') a polyurethane or some other type of protective clear coat. I would use a circular or random-orbital power sander on the top as that looks the most beaten up, naturally. When I use a circular sander on furniture I go gentle yet effective: an attachment to my 18v dewalt drill and a couple boxes of circular sanding pads that fit it: from medium- to fine-grit (100 grit should be as rough as you go but if that doesn't do the job go as low as 80-grit and finish with 220-grit or higher if you can find it). I would strip the top completely: get it down to bare wood if possible. I THINK - I don't KNOW since I can't touch and examine the piece - that the sides and the rest of the piece can be hand-sanded with the same grit sandpaper, or even the "stripping" sandpaper. *** However you choose to sand it, do it thoroughly: get that clear coat off and get as much of the stain off as possible. And MAKE SURE YOU DUST IT OFF! Use a dust-brush or even a backpack leaf-blower. It may seam like overkill but you have to be working with a perfectly clean surface. Also those air-spray cans for dusting your keyboard: that would work too. 2) It should be sealed with an oil-based primer to prevent the stain from coming through. I'm sure you know this. Benjamin Moore "Advance" comes in a primer though I don't know if that will be adequate - it depends on how the sanding went, how much stain came off, how much bare wood is exposed, etc. You have a couple options with the stain-blocking: you can buy a quart of a quality oil-based primer and brush/roll where appropriate or you can get the oil-based primer in cans for spraying. I always like to spray when I can, just make sure it's a nice even coat and apply at least two coats. *** Talk to the experts at your local paint store (not the "paint" department at a big-box home department store - I always suggest to go local. There are Ricciardi's stores all over NJ so if there's one near you I recommend going to them; or maybe you already have a favorite store. All I know is the staff at the Ricciardi's in Morristown are super, super knowledgeable men and women who have answered every tough question I've brought to them over the last decade and they've always been dead on.) or do your own research online to find out what primer is best for your piece (again I can't touch and examine it). By the way I'm not in any way partnered with any of the companies/manufactures/stores I'm name-dropping. They're just my favorites. 3) If/when you choose your "Advance" color and finish, a quart will be plenty. Sand the primer lightly with 220-grit sandpaper (if you chose an oil-based enamel it's almost like working with spackle or plaster it's so sand-able, and you can really get a smooth, smooth finish). Apply the paint with a brush or a mini roller (I don't reccomend an airless sprayer for this: you would need to buy a gallon because the machine drinks up so much of it and it requires a lot of experience and knowlede to apply it correctly, with the correct pressure and the correct tip, etc. Unless you've done this before, brush and roll is fine) in a series very, very thin coats and, again, check your work thoroughly to avoid drips and sags. Read the label of the paint - it will instruct you to wait something like 16 hours (overnight, basically) between coats. I've found that to be exaggerated, as most label directions usually are (for example, a lot of paints say one gallon will cover 350-400 square feet. Never have I had that much coverage from a gallon of paint, and I always use multiple thin coats as opposed to fewer thick coats: it's just a better painting practice). *** ALWAYS lightly sand and dust (with an air-spray can, dust-brush or even a leafblower... seriously) between coats to remove burrs, drips and sags (they happen to the best of us, no matter how careful or skilled we are!) and to provide "tooth" (better adhesion of following coats). The more coats, the more durable. I hope this lengthy response was helpful. Good luck with whatever method you choose. Refinishing old furniture is so much fun, and seeing the end result - and before/during/after pictures - is very rewarding. Best Wishes, Richard J. D'Angelo, owner CraftPro Home Improvements Morristown, NJ 07960 http://craftprocontracting.com/blog I'd love to connect with all of you on other platforms/networks/sites: http://google.com/+RichardDAngelo http://google.com/+CraftProContracting http://pinterest.com/CraftProNJ http://facebook.com/CraftProNJ http://twitter.com/CraftProNJ
CraftPro Home Improvements
on Feb 23, 2014
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I like the basket weave cabinet. My friend has one like it uses it for liquor in a dining room. A tray on top would protect the surface…I'd like to see it in an antique white….
DebLynn
on Feb 23, 2014
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the one piece of advice I can add is to not only blow the dust off between each coat but actually wipe it down. I use mineral spirits between coats when I'm using poly and a damp dry cloth when I use latex paint. It's like using a tack cloth; which often have wax in them but without the wax,
Kelly S
on Feb 23, 2014
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For the first piece I'd either go with a neutral that has some drama, like deep taupe, or a very trendy color--something bright and playful. I probably change the hardware, too. The second one: I'd paint it a very bright color, add legs, and maybe do a black stencil.
KathrynElizabeth Etier
on Feb 24, 2014
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I wouldn't touch that box! The rustic look with no finish is perfect. I think the woven wood inserts on the cabinet are dated. Could you replace those with flat MDF or even glass? (That's just my personal taste so I hope I haven't offended you.) I'd paint the piece black and distress lightly or you could go bold and use a barn red similar to the color of your door. This would be a perfect piece for a foyer or even under a wall mounted flat screen to hide electronics.
Janet Smith
on Mar 09, 2014
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Paint it shiny black with a mirror over the top in a foyer with a beautiful flower arrangement
Darlene Clonts
on Mar 09, 2014
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I do not know about the cabinet. But the crate, is great! I have one and I left it just as I bought it. It is natural, with an emblem on the ends for a produce company. I use it for many things, right now it has been beside the hearth with firewood in it. I kept it on the bottom of my bakers rack with my Holiday supplies,(napkins, paper plates, etc.) so they would be handy. I have some plans in the near future to use it for other storage. I love crates, baskets, and would love to have a half dozen of these.
Debbie Stanley
on Mar 09, 2014
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