1. Check for split or decaying wood

See Pictures (1)... Be careful of painted surfaces as they can hide a multitude of sins. If you see paint that looks like it is bubbled or peeling as that is a sure sign of issues.

2. Check the flashing

See Pictures (2)... While one would hope that there is flashing directing water away from the house, that isn't always the case & even if it does have it, it needs to be done right

3. Check for loose, missing, or corroded fasteners

See Picture (3)... Corrosion is a sure sign that the fastener is about to go & that the wood maybe rotting in that area.

4. Check your railings & balusters

See Picture (3)... These railings should all be firmly in place & not easily move. The top should be at least 36" tall (we prefer 42") with no openings larger than 4". While most people might not have a 4" ball handy, you can use a ½ gallon jug of mil or juice which is a little under 4"wide

5. Check your stairs

Going back to our first picture (1), if you have an "open riser" the opening should not be bigger than 4″. You should also check the balusters, railing aka guard, and any additional handrails are secured properly. Finally you should make sure there are no plantings or other issues blocking or growing up through the stairs – yeah they had three strikes on that one.

6. Cleanliness is next to...

Make sure you are keeping your deck cleaned off & maintained. Piles of leaves not only trap moisture but provide food for microorganisms to grow & thrive (even on composite decks).

7. Grills, Fire Pits, Chimneys...

See Picture 7... Fire & heat doesn't mix to well with decks & houses – while they can add to an enjoyable atmosphere be sure to use caution and follow the manufacturers directions (especially on clearances).

8. Lighting & Electrical

A well lit deck is safe deck at night – so check those bulbs & any electrical running to it to prevent shocks &/or fire hazards

9. Outdoor Furniture & Seating

Make sure you give it a good once over so there are no issues. Be careful placing seats near the edges of the deck (especially ones without railings)

10. Look up

While trees are great at providing shade, the last thing you want it is a dead branch falling down during the middle of a dinner party or a sick tree being blown over during a storm wiping out your deck

For more tips & to see the original article; http://blog.sls-construction.com/2013/a-visu...

In order to enjoy a typical wood deck now it is important that you seal it. No matter if you are a pro or a DIYer, there are two simple rules that I have & hope you will keep in mind no matter what the project is; prepare it properly and follow the manufacturer's directions.

Choosing a sealer:

There are 4 main choices of sealers on the market, each with their own pros & cons. If you are tossing around two or more options, choose the lower tiered item as one can always move up the list but you can't move down it. For example if you are debating between paint & a stain – while you can paint over stain, you can't stain over a painted deck.

· Paint – while many people like the look of paint, this is one of the hardest items to maintain and can easily hide water damaged areas

· Solid Color Stain – while this can look like a paint,it is a stain that gets absorbed into the wood and is easier to maintain, depending on your application some wood grain maybe still visible and it is known to wear unevenly

· Semi-Transparent Stain – For a more natural look with some color, this is the most popular choice, it generally wears more even than solid color, but doesn't protect as well

· Waterproofing or transparent coatings – this will give you the most natural look, but do not hide stains or protect as well

For more on Oil vs. Water Based & other additives: http://bit.ly/DeckSealer

Prepare it properly:

If you ask any professional painter, they will say that on average 80% of their time is spent on properly preparing the surfaces, while only 20% is actually spent applying the product. While this number maybe inflated for decks, just remember that the amount of time spent getting it ready up front, is time well spent.

Getting Ready:

· Gather all the tools, safety equipment and materials that you will need. Take time to read the directions.

· Check the weather forecasts as most products are very specific on minimum temperatures & when it can be exposed to water

· Make sure the wood is dry enough to accept the stain, sealer, or paint of your choice

· Remove everything located not only on the deck, but around it like furniture, potted plants, wind chimes, etc...

· Cover any plants near the deck to protect them from the overspray & any chemicals you may use.

· Removing any large debris by hand and sweep the deck off, paying particular attention to the area's between the deck boards.

Applying your choice of Sealants:

Do you remember the second rule above? That's right; it's as simple as reading and following the manufacturer's directions. I will give you a few tips though that may or may not be located on the can.

· Apply plastic to any area's that you do not want stain or paint to get on, because once you get started, you do not want to stop to try to clean up an oopsie

· For all stains and sealers, do one complete board at a time – if the you only do half a board or work in sections, you will end up with obvious streaks where the two area's overlap

· Do not over apply the product – in most cases it will result in a flaky or splotchy finish

· Make sure the moisture level of the wood is low enough for work to commence – you do not want to trap all the moisture inside the wood

· Stain or seal all six sides if it is at all possible unless you live by the ocean. This will help prevent moisture from getting into the wood and accelerating the degradation of the finish.

· Let it rest – most paints, stains and sealers take at least a day or more to cure

For more Preparation Tips & other Decking Options; http://bit.ly/HTRC-Decks

You will need

1"x4" MDF (32 ft)

1/2 birch plywd

Trim (40 ft)

Baseboard (3 ft)

All building supplies for the mirror/cabinet project approx. 40.00

Lights - 38.00 each on sale

New faux wood blind - 39.00

Paint - 5.00 (bought a mis tint from Rona)

1 can of brushed Nickel spray paint 10.00

we also did floating shelves in the water closet (another idea I got from a fellow Pinterester)

We only needed 2 shelves for this bathroom

but made 6 shelves

24X 8 inches with supports

1 sheet of 1/4 plywood, sanded on one side

10 1×2 pine boards

floating shelves supplies 20.00

when all was said and done the total reno for this bathroom was 190.00

Have fun with it and make it your own

Microwave safe bowl ( I used a large glass measuring cup)

Sponge

Paper towels

1/4 cup of distilled white vinegar

1 cup of water

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