If I had to do it the first thing I would do is remove the door. You should be able to pick the door straight up and then shift it out of the track. Once that is done just use a cloth and what ever you like to clean it with. Make sure it is dry, while the door is out check the rollers and make sure there is nothing wrong with them and that they are clean too. Then reinsert the door. You should be good for a long time after that.
Check the drain holes while you are down there. Old toothbrushes are my favorite for those tight corners. Dry scrub or sweep, then vacuum, then spray with water or cleaner, scrub again and rinse.
Over the years I have done a lot of these "slider" up grades. I can break them down into 3 basic groups.
1. Debris in the track problems. sand, rocks, hairballs etc. can effect the smooth rolling nature of the designed plan. This debris can cause the "wheel" to wear of become jammed. In extreme cases I have seen jammed wheels wear through because they no longer rolled. The simple addition of a
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"welcome mat" can reduce this debris loading into the track. Frequent cleaning with a vacuum is good. Avoid the use of lubricants, this will attract more dirt.
2. poorly adjusted wheels. Most sliders have a screw adjustment that can alter the position of the wheels in relationship to the door bottom Wheels that are set to low may cause the bottom of the door to drag in the frame.
3. header compression. This problem has more to due with the home than just the door. Last week I had to perform some pretty complex surgery to a door in a log home due to this compression. A jack was required to lift the center of the door way up to allow removal of the door. The wheels and track were fine..it was just being compressed. Here I trimmed off about 1/8 to 1/4 " off the top of the door (wood interior aluminum clad exterior) and reinstalled. To remove this door a wood trim strip needed to be removed rather than the "door lift" trick. Additional with this door a piece of weather strip had come loose along the bottom,and was causing some drag. this was reset with some trim screws.
Once these repairs are made the door can be moved with just 1 finger.
Good eye KMS. A lot of people would not know what to look for in situation like that but you knew right where to go. As for a lubricant on the wheels that is a big no no unless you use something dry like graphite. Most people don't like to use that because it makes things look black but it does do the job. Any "wet" type of lubricant just makes things worse for sure.
1. Debris in the track problems. sand, rocks, hairballs etc. can effect the smooth rolling nature of the designed plan. This debris can cause the "wheel" to wear of become jammed. In extreme cases I have seen jammed wheels wear through because they no longer rolled. The simple addition of a ...»
2. poorly adjusted wheels. Most sliders have a screw adjustment that can alter the position of the wheels in relationship to the door bottom Wheels that are set to low may cause the bottom of the door to drag in the frame.
3. header compression. This problem has more to due with the home than just the door. Last week I had to perform some pretty complex surgery to a door in a log home due to this compression. A jack was required to lift the center of the door way up to allow removal of the door. The wheels and track were fine..it was just being compressed. Here I trimmed off about 1/8 to 1/4 " off the top of the door (wood interior aluminum clad exterior) and reinstalled. To remove this door a wood trim strip needed to be removed rather than the "door lift" trick. Additional with this door a piece of weather strip had come loose along the bottom,and was causing some drag. this was reset with some trim screws.
Once these repairs are made the door can be moved with just 1 finger.