Removing a load bearing wall

I want to tear out a load bearing wall. I've done the research. I know what size/height beam I need to install after I install a temporary wall and tear out the existing one. I know I'd have to get some help in the muscle department but am still hesitant. Can this project be DIY'd? Should it be DIY'd? Even by a savvy, handy, skilled and knowledgable DIY gal such as myself? Some thoughts from the pro's or peeps who have DIY'd this themselves in that past would be awesome!

18 Comments

Paul M Fairburn, GA

DIY of this type of work depends on your experience, the span of the beam, how heavy the beam is, what sort of substrate are you lifting from, what attachment scheme will be employed to secure the beam, and a few other odds and ends that will have to be sorted out upon installation. For me, not knowing your specific parameters or your experience level, it is impossible to determine if you should do this or not. For me it would not be a big deal, but I have been in the construction industry ...»
for 35 years, specifically metal fabrication and erection, so what you are doing is just an every day chore for me. However that is not where most folks are with their experience level so I can only advise caution, especially if you are picking a piece of steel up in the air.

on Jul 10, 2012 · Like 1
Lori J Broken Bow, NE

My husband and I did this together...once. It was not fun. It involved a lot of swearing, but we did it. Our span was fourteen feet, and to this day, I am not sure HOW we managed. I remember using 4x4 posts with a cross section (Giant T) to help steady the weight. I think it can be done, but I would get big, burly help.

on Jul 10, 2012 · Like 1
Sandra P Knoxville, TN

Paul, it sounds like you should just come on over and knock this out in a day...then. :-) Thanks for your input.
Lori, I think you might be braver than me. I'm feeling more prone to hire this job out...

on Jul 10, 2012 · Like 0
Paul M Fairburn, GA

Sandra I don't mind helping but it is a long way from my house to yours. <(^_^)>. If you plan this right and implement is properly it will probably take around a week to get everything in place and pull all your shoring out of the way. Of course your span will have everything to do with that, the wider it is the longer it will take, generally. See if you can get several quotes from professionals in your area and have them describe what they are going to do so you can get some idea if ...»
they will be doing the job properly or not. One thing is for sure, you don't want to cut any corners on a project like this.

on Jul 11, 2012 · Like 1
Tony S Lawrenceville, GA

As one who has taught residential construction & remodeling for a number of years, I'd strongly recommend seeking the assistance of your local building code officials on this one. While a load-bearing wall may appear to be a singular element in your home's overall structure, in fact it is part of the "system" of all load-bearing walls from the ground all the way to the peak of you roof. A simple mistake or overlooked code requirement has the potential to affect many other things in your ...»
home. Your local building officials can be found wherever building permits are issued in your area. They are truly knowledgeable and enjoy helping the DIY'er. The bottom line? Sandra, do yourself a favor (as well as gain some piece of mind) and contact you local officials with your idea before tackling this project.

on Jul 11, 2012 · Like 2
Jeanie C Greenville, AL

We recently removed a load bearing wall and I am so glad that we had professionals do this for us. It was very involved. Good luck.

on Jul 11, 2012 · Like 1
Sandra P Knoxville, TN

So...I think I'll just hire this one out! LOL Seriously! Thanks for all the input. I was thinking, maybe just maybe, I'd try to take it on but I don't have to do EVERYTHING myself. This one's off MY list. :-)

on Jul 11, 2012 · Like 1
KMS Woodworks Nederland, CO

Having an engineer look at the loads would be best. My brother had a load wall opened up a few years back...12' span holding up second story brick wall....needless to so it was a big'ol beam. Not only does the beam need to be engineered to take the load, but the support columns and their load transfer to the foundation.

on Jul 11, 2012 · Like 1
Woodbridge Environmental ... Colonia, NJ

You also need to consider the load path. Regardless of the beam size you need to determine if the supports and foundation will be able to support the new loads imposed upon them.
Many people make that mistake thinking they got the beam size correct, and often they do, but forget that all the weight that was shared along the entire wall and footing or main beam below is now supported in just two new locations on each end. Oftentimes putting on so much pressure on the ...»
top of the supporting columns below that they crush or crack the foundation.
KMS is right on with this. Get an engineer to do the design. Once you have that its really a simple project afterwords and can be done by most folks.

on Jul 11, 2012 · Like 3
APSuess Fine Woodworking Lawrenceville, GA

KMS & Woodbridge...You both make some very invaluable points. The load MUST be carried all the way to the foundation. Having done some restoration work up in Montclair, NJ, I've seen several situations where "DIY" remodeling jobs ended up causing major structural problems as time went on.

on Jul 12, 2012 · Like 0
Jeanette S Atlanta, GA

I watch some of the shows on TV where the actual structural layout of the place is complely reconfigured and cannot imagine taking on such projects. There comes a time when it is best left to the professionals and even then it can be tricky! Notice on these shows also that the work is not done by IT types...usually there are several big burly guys in the background!

on Jul 12, 2012 · Like 1
APSuess Fine Woodworking Lawrenceville, GA

Jeanette....The TV Shows you mention only show you one-third of the work involved; The third that can be accomplished between commercials. :o) While the International Building Code provides guidance on the vast majority of structural requirements, when remodeling, all bets are off. I'm certain our friends at Woodbridge Environmental will agree. My most challenging project in the past involved the removal of two load-bearing walls and the installation of specially engineered floor joists ...»
to accommodate a customer's 4000 lbs pipe organ in a second-story room. To add insult to injury, the room was directly above a wide-open 3-car garage.

on Jul 13, 2012 · Like 0
KMS Woodworks Nederland, CO

AP Suess....at least with a 3 car garage below you had room to work...imagine a 36" high ratty old crawl space.

on Jul 13, 2012 · Like 1
Woodbridge Environmental ... Colonia, NJ

I did an inspection on a home several years ago, The owner decided to install mud floor and tiles on both levels throughout the home. Mud floors for those who do not know is a cement base instead of using a cement board. Its about two inches thick. Anyway, they did the entire home. When I got there and started my inspection I could not open any of the center area closet doors as they were jammed closed. When I went to the basement the main support beam was compressed around the support ...»
columns that the wood had crushed around the top of the steel post. The beam had dropped about two inches from all the weight. Outside the garage center post between the two doors had been pushed into the ground about four inches below were it used to be. This is a perfect example of load path gone wrong. You simply cannot remove a support wall or add weight without knowing what will happen. I think this is the biggest mistake that people make when doing things without proper guidance. Its understandable that they want to save money, but there are some things that even pros understand and that is to bring in the engineer prior to changing load paths within a home.

on Jul 13, 2012 · Like 2
KMS Woodworks Nederland, CO

Woodbridge...gypcrete to the rescue?

on Jul 14, 2012 · Like 0
Woodbridge Environmental ... Colonia, NJ

Had another client who owned a bank style home and decided he could dig out the crawl space with a bobcat. When I got there the chimney on one side of the home home had fallen into the newly dug out hole. The only thing that kept it from falling over was the mantel that was made out of stone got stuck to the interior wall. It was however at my knee level when I walked into the room. Some folks just do not get it.

on Jul 14, 2012 · Like 0
Jeanette S Atlanta, GA

Interesting comments here! I am one of those kind that would NEVER even think of trying to take out a support wall. In fact, I do not like the open concept that everyone is so crazy about. I like defined spaces, preferably with closing doors. I do not like to sit in the den and have to look at anything out of place in the kitchen or dining rooms or any other space! Last year we had a double window made larger (vertically...lowered the bottome window seal), but it was done by a ...»
professional that carried every insurance available to him (I received proof from his agent)!

on Jul 19, 2012 · Like 0
Paul M Fairburn, GA

Woodbridge had it been a traditional chimney it would have had its own foundation and come up from the bottom of the building. If you look at old homesteads where the house is gone or in a state of substantial decay the chimneys are still standing, alone. I have a problem with some supposed approved new building practices that are just what you talked about, using the floor the support the chimney, not a good idea. Unfortunately it is common these days and most folks don't know the ...»
difference so you get someone who thinks it is ok to dig out underneath and remove all support so you get the type of collapse you describe. What can you say? Lots of folks just don't know, yet they think they do, so they proceed and end up in a big jam, then wonder how they got there.

on Jul 19, 2012 · Like 0