Priming sheetrock walls? Here's some tips to help you knock it out.
--If the walls are previously unpainted, use a primer made specifically for drywall. If
they have been painted before, then an all purpose primer will do. And paint stores are happy to tint the primer in the direction of the finish coat color to help with coverage. BTW, any caulking is done after priming.
--The most common mistake folks make when starting to paint is not using enough paint on their roller or brush. The right roller cover and brush will allow you to load up your tools with paint, making the job quicker, easier and give a better finish, doing away with Doc Holiday and the dry brush gang!
--Buy the best brush. I like Purdys. If you know how to thoroughly clean them out, then you will have no qualms about spending the money for good equipment. There should not be any 'milky water trails' coming out of the heel of the brush when you are done. When rolling bare draywall, a lambswool roller cover works best. It holds a tremendous quantity of paint and unlike synthetic roller covers, it cleans up easily and will give you years of service.
--Before you start, it helps to pre-wet your roller by dunking it in water then spinning out the excess water. This will give the paint quick, even absorption into the cover. The brush can be pre-wet as well to help the paint not dry to and stick so easily around the base. The excess water in the brush can be 'kicked out' on the toe of your workshoe.
--So you are ready to load up your equipment with paint. When rolling, don't start right next to the corner or right next to your just finished area. Instead, come out one or two roller widths and work your way back into the corner or just finished area with your full roller. Once you have the paint distributed over an area that can be completed with one roller dip, make one more pass to even it out, filling it in completely. One more thing, keep a slight bit more pressure on the leading edge of the roller. This will help avoid leaving heavy roller edges.
Just remember the three most important things: use more paint, 3X!!!
Commented on Apr 07, 2013
Yes you can prime now Linny. Then after you prime, you will be able to see clearly all the
blemishes you want to patch. Use the 3M 'no prime' non-shrink spackle that does not need priming again. Then top-coat!
So a several years ago I painted my upper cabinets a cream color and the lower ones I painted black. I am wanting to paint all of them white now. Here is my thought, I can easily go over
the uppers with white, I used latex for the paint. The bottom ones is where I have a dilema. The paint I used I believe was enamel. Do I have to sand first? I dont want to!! Can I just prime them first and then paint? I need some advice, please and thank you:)
Commented on Mar 09, 2013
Rachel, one principle in painting is don't paint over anything hard and shiny without
preparing it properly. If you don't want there to be a possibility of future peeling then something shiny needs to be de-glossed. This can be quickly done with a fine sanding sponge run evenly over the surface. Even if you are applying water base paint over an old oil base paint, a simple sanding then a coat (or two) of TOP-LINE water-base enamel will serve you well. With the proper prep, the top of the line enamels are meant to stick to any surface.
We are painting my daughter's kitchen cabinets--stock cabinets painted already but smoke damage from a fire! Something that will hold up with three kids and two dogs! Anybody try the Rustoleum stuff
Commented on Jan 31, 2013
Because of the wear they get, cabinets are in a category by themselves when it comes to paint.
To be durable, they need a two-part epoxy type coating. Any other kind of paint is just too soft to stand up to grease, water, etc.
Do not be intimidated by this exotic sounding paint. If you can paint well with regular paint, you can paint with epoxy. Only follow the directions on the can carefully and get input from the store personel, and you can get a tile-like finish!
You can get this product in a water base formula at your local Sherwin Williams store.
It will take only a little more effort to first use the epoxy. With all the labor that goes into painting cabinets, you want to use the right kind of coating that will serve you well for years to come.
I purchased a 1988 manufactured home in a senior citizen's park here in Navarre, Florida. I want to make some updates to the cupboards in the kitchen without replacing them as they are
still in decent condition and I can't afford to spend much money on updates. I don't know what paint would be the best to use; especially the contact paper type stuff in my bathroom nor how to prep them for painting. I also don't want to make a major deal out of this project either.