A lot of these gurgling type sounds are due to limits in the vent piping ( the air part that goes up through the roof and not down with the water) Do you know if any of these were worked on?

We had this problem for several months. Our resolution was simple. Fill the tub with water and drain. Problem fix. I hope this fixes your problem. Simple, but it worked. Note: This tub was one of the guest bedrooms, which gets very little use.

are you losing water from your tub trap? if so you could either have debris in the trap that allows water to wick out. Or the trap could have been damaged during install whereas it loses the water, or the comode could have more velocity when it is flushed then the old one and it is pulling water out of the trap. or when the grout was done for the new tile, if it was washed down the tub drain you could have a much smaller water seal in the trap.

The toilet not install correctly.

Have you re-contacted the plumbers that did the remodel work?

Ben Franklin gave you a lot of good suggestions regarding what could be the problem, but Chuck S is right. Call the plumbing company that did the work. They should willing to stand behind their work with a good warranty. If so, they will send a plumber back to do a complete inspection of the work, including running a snake down the drain or running a camera down it if necessary to see if anything solid was dropped in the drain line during the work.

one thing I do and also recommend to my clients for "plumbing maintenance" is about every 6 months turn the heat up on the hot water tank...to very hot...then after a couple hours of it getting hotter run 100% PURE HOT down all of the drains in the house. This melts accumulated grease bits and things in the kitchen and it also helps with keeping the bath drains clear. Once you have done this turn the water heater back down.

Usually, I find myself agreeing with KMS' suggestions, but I can't endorse this one for 3 reasons: 1) you are putting a lot of stress on the water heater, if it's an old water heater it could fail under that stree; 2) someone who is unaware that you have turned the water temperature so high could turn on a faucet and scald themselves; 3) the hot water will temporarily melt the grease and move it further down the line but as the water cools off the grease will solidify again and cause ...»

Atlanta...I'm not sure how a 10 to 20 degree rise will add extra stress to a water heater...I would think a cold start would have a far greater effect on a unit. A good number of my clients run their heater that hot all the time as is allows for a longer shower ( they adjust as the very hot is diluted with cold) In my home the entire pipe run to the septic tank is only about 30 feet or so the quantity of water I flush puts the hot all the way trough the homes system...and yes we do not ...»

You have a pretty short run to the septic tank. Here in Atlanta, especially in the suburbs, homes are very typically two stories on a full basement, with a bathroom in that basement, then a fairly long run to the main sewer line in the street. The problem of F.O.G (fats, oils and greases) in the lines is getting so bad that a lot of the Counties have major campaigns going on to stop F.O.G getting in to the sewer system because it causes overflows that can back up into homes, businesses or ...»

Was out sick the past few days. Just got back in the office and have that MSDS sheet KMS requested. Not sure how to post it to HomeTalk though. Will send it to you by e-mail KMS if you send me your e-mail address.

you can post it as a pic?

my email is ....kmswoodworks@yahoo.com

I tried to post as a pic but couldn't. Its a PDF file, so I don't know why it wouldn't post. I'll e-mail it to you. As far as I know, BioSmart is the only drain cleaning product that has been officially endorsed by the EPA as being safe for the environment. That's why I recommend it. I guess I could post the PDF file on my website too. Never thought of that before.