Part of the variables in pricing is that different localities and differences in the way the sludge gets disposed, and what it costs the operator to do so. That stuff does not just magically disappear when he sucks it out. There are differing layers of national, state, and local EPA outfits to satisfy at differing costs.Some guys can just spread it on a filed, others have to bury it in a pit, others have to pay to have it "laundered"
Thank you all for your responses. I've been in my home for three years and have never had it cleaned out. Is it safe to use anyone in the yellow pages?
I don't know why anyone from the yellow pages would not be good enough. The guy I use services Cobb and parts of Fulton county otherwise I would recommend him to you, but he doesn't go that far out.
The best thing to do is get it done during the week, and get three estimates on the phone. Then check with your local BBB to see if there are any complaints. In Orlando, it runs from $200.00 to $400.00 depending on how 'full' the tank is, and if there are other issues.
It keeps the tank working properly and free of blockages. I also use only liquid soap in the laundry and kitchen.The liquid soaps do not 'clump' in the tank and form soap 'boulders' that can plug the drain field lines.
ON that subject of septic tank care, it is best to avoid chlorine products because they kill the little guys that digest the solid matter to make it liquid.
Well, they are charging me a "digging fee" because they have to dig down further than 18in. The charge is 125 on top of the 290 for the cleanout. Then they said that I have a fiberglass tank and the top may be damaged. I had no idea where my tank was, but why would they charge me a digging fee when they are suppose to find the tank? That's their specialty. The guys are here now.
You could have easily avoided the digging fee if you uncover the tank yourself. That is what I have done before then you only pay the pumping fee. So the digging fee is normal because they have to get the tank exposed or it can't be pumped. If you tank if fiberglass I would have some concern about using a machine to dig it out. I would do that by hand it if was me just to make sure it doesn't get hurt. Unless you are willing to get out there and get dirty just let the pumping company do it
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and you won't have to worry about it for 10 or 15 years now.
Thank you all for all of your advice. Paul, I do think that next time, I will do the digging myself. It will save me allot of money and get a good workout...:) You all are the best! I knew nothing about septic systems until I needed it cleaned out, thank you all for your informative responses.
Tonya, I permanently solved my issue with my septic tank the last two times. When I dug it up for service I put in a man hole so I never have to dig it up again. Yeah you can see it up top but considering how much work it is to dig it up each time and then the yard has to heal I just decided to look at the man hole cover instead. Just a suggestion. Glad you got your tank pumped. If any solid material starts making its way down the field lines then it becomes a super invasive prospect not to mention very costly.
Paul, I don't know if I'm skilled enough to put a manhole cover in my yard. How did you do that? Great suggestion though. Since the septic system is under about 2 1/2 feet of earth that cover would be the perfect solution. @ NHS...Oh wow! I'll have to ask the next time do they give a discount on the septic cleaning if I dig the hole myself. Thanks for the tip!
most likely you have a manhole already there, its just covered with soil.
The Septic company can raise your existing cover to the surface of the lawn if you like, the cost dependent on how far under the finished grade is.
What we always suggested to our clients who did this was to purchase or build a wishing well to sit on top of the cover to hide it from view. or at least provide us with the location for future
...»
pump outs.
Still do not want that? Then using a measuring tape measure from two points on the house to the cover. This will triangulate the top of the cover so you always remember where its located even in the winter if you experience snow in your area. In our last home we had a septic system and also did the distribution box for the field as we always had this checked when ever we pumped the tank.
Costs in the NJ area run now because of fuel costs, @$500. Used to be about $350-$400 depending on how full of solids the tank was.
Tonya my old septic tank didn't come with a pre-made man hole but like Woodbridge said you probably do have one if your tank is fiberglass. All of the newer tanks either have one or have a option for one already built in. Since I didn't have one I removed one of the concrete lid pieces, mine was two piece, then took a piece of 1" thick plate the same size of the concrete lid, cut a 32" hole in and then rolled some 6x1/4 flat bar and welded that to the plate until it was the right height,
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cut a lid out of 3/16 diamond plate, welded some small clips inside with nuts welded to them and then put holes in my lid so I can bolt it to the stack, and then we installed. After that I back filled it with the dirt I dug out and viola I now have a man hole for tank access. If you ever had to do that any welding shop could make something like that for you. But in your case the manufacturer of your tank has pre-made parts that will fit your tank so you can make your access point as high you need it. If you want to figure it out and do it your self then you need to find out who made your tank and then find out where your built in access port is and how deep it is. Once you do that you should be able to contact the manufacturer and if they are a reputable company they should walk you through the rest of the process. Or if you prefer they should be able to tell you who is a authorized installer in your area.
In Ohio, we used to have an urn over the tank lid - a bit of decoration for the yard and no question where that lid was. You can also 'create' a cavity with pressure treated wood around the hole to the lid and top with a sturdy cover and urn.
By using Septicare monthly, I only need to have my tank serviced every three to five years. (which is recommended).
The price depends on the size of the tank 1000 or1500 gallon and how deep the tank is if its more than two foot we use a tractor normally its around 350
Use the All-Natural www.MillerPlante.net "Septic-Helper 2000" and the All-Natural, Nitrate Free "Enza Washer Ball". The Septic System Treatment has the natural bacteria and enzymes that liquefy the waste in the tank AND out in the drain field. Both for less than $4 per month.
New 2011 EPA mandates say that even a slow drain in your leach field or elevated Nitrate
...»
levels could require replacement of your entire system for $10,000 to $50,000 or connect to the city sewer.
Because of the presence of significant numbers and types of bacteria, enzymes, yeasts, and other fungi and microorganisms in typical residential and commercial wastewaters, the use of septic system additives containing these or any other ingredients is not recommended. The benefits of consumer products sold as septic system cleaners, degraders, decomposers, deodorizers, organic digesters, or enhancers are not significant or have not been demonstrated conclusively, depending on the product. Some of these products can actually interfere with treatment processes, affect biological decomposition of wastes, contribute to system clogging, and contaminate ground water. The septic tank/soil absorption field system is the most commonly used onsite wastewater treatment system in the United States. It is relatively low in cost, has no moving parts, and requires little maintenance.
Woodbridge Environmental: The EPA also says that Carbon Dioxide (what plants breathe) is a Poisonous Gas and Nitrates (what plants eat) is Poisoning water supplies. Either treat your septic system with natural bacterial additives or pay Al Gore $2 Trillion a year in Carbon Taxes and Replace your septic system for $10,000-$80,000. Your choice.
Miller Plante, Your product may have some value and I am sure will not hurt anything to use it, but I don't think you will sell much of it by making statements like a threatening extortionist. Maybe you could do an edit and tone it down a bit.
That is right Nichter. I addition to that there is always the option to find out how a system works, no matter what it is, and take care of it yourself thereby removing the necessity for major overhauls, or unnecessary additives. That is what I have done through the years and I save untold amounts of money by figuring out how things function and taking care of business on my own.
I do not know how many ways I can say this. The stuff that goes down the drain has enough natural enzymes to properly maintain a septic system. These systems have been around for hundreds of years without all these special additives introduced into the system.
Believe what you want. But I have been around enough of these systems in my many years to understand what I have seen these types of products do.
...»
If the homeowner properly maintains their system and does not flush grease or other UN-biodegradable materials down the toilet, then there is no reason to use any additional product, yeast or magic fairy dust down with the waste.
These products are simply a magic cure for those who do not properly maintain their systems as they should. Much like gasoline additives that are supposed to boost your mileage instead of tuning the car up as it is supposed to be.
Its been documented by health departments, city and state departments, and the EPA. It is not recommended and is a waste of money that can only ruin a septic field by introducing more digested solids then they are designed to deal with.
I will say I do not deny that your product will not digest more solids in the main tank. There are a lot of other products that also do what your product claims, but that is where they are supposed to be held. Not broken down so they move with the effluent out into the field where a natural matting takes place thus ruining the perk.
Still another site http://www.agwt.org/info/septicsystems.htm States that the use of these additives can ruin the field by introducing additional sludge and scum to be flushed into the field thus plugging the holes in the drainage pipes.
Its that simple Belle, Pump every three years and have the tank baffle checked once its cleaned out as the baffle prevents any floating sludge from moving into the septic field.
If you use a garbage disposal although not recommended, pump more often.
That is it!.
People just do not understand that for a three or four hundred dollars every three years they
...»
can save thousands by keeping the system cleaned out. For some reason they think as long as they do not smell anything or the ground is not wet that everything is fine under the ground. But just keeping it pumped every few years and not abusing the system things will last a long time.
In fact with the invention of the low water toilet and the High Efficiency washer less water is going down the system allowing it to work even better.
Never add things that do not digest, like condoms, Tampax, chicken bones,,,,every septic pump guy has a lot of stories to tell if you want to listen. Just stay upwind of him!
;)
And use single ply toilet paper labeled as being safe for septic systems.
I use a product called "SEPTICARE" monthly. www.septicare.com ...»
It keeps the tank working properly and free of blockages. I also use only liquid soap in the laundry and kitchen.The liquid soaps do not 'clump' in the tank and form soap 'boulders' that can plug the drain field lines.
The Septic company can raise your existing cover to the surface of the lawn if you like, the cost dependent on how far under the finished grade is.
What we always suggested to our clients who did this was to purchase or build a wishing well to sit on top of the cover to hide it from view. or at least provide us with the location for future ...»
Still do not want that? Then using a measuring tape measure from two points on the house to the cover. This will triangulate the top of the cover so you always remember where its located even in the winter if you experience snow in your area. In our last home we had a septic system and also did the distribution box for the field as we always had this checked when ever we pumped the tank.
Costs in the NJ area run now because of fuel costs, @$500. Used to be about $350-$400 depending on how full of solids the tank was.
By using Septicare monthly, I only need to have my tank serviced every three to five years. (which is recommended).
New 2011 EPA mandates say that even a slow drain in your leach field or elevated Nitrate ...»
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This is copied from the EPA web site.
Quote: ...»
Because of the presence of significant numbers and types of bacteria, enzymes, yeasts, and other fungi and microorganisms in typical residential and commercial wastewaters, the use of septic system additives containing these or any other ingredients is not recommended. The benefits of consumer products sold as septic system cleaners, degraders, decomposers, deodorizers, organic digesters, or enhancers are not significant or have not been demonstrated conclusively, depending on the product. Some of these products can actually interfere with treatment processes, affect biological decomposition of wastes, contribute to system clogging, and contaminate ground water. The septic tank/soil absorption field system is the most commonly used onsite wastewater treatment system in the United States. It is relatively low in cost, has no moving parts, and requires little maintenance.
Believe what you want. But I have been around enough of these systems in my many years to understand what I have seen these types of products do. ...»
If the homeowner properly maintains their system and does not flush grease or other UN-biodegradable materials down the toilet, then there is no reason to use any additional product, yeast or magic fairy dust down with the waste.
These products are simply a magic cure for those who do not properly maintain their systems as they should. Much like gasoline additives that are supposed to boost your mileage instead of tuning the car up as it is supposed to be.
Its been documented by health departments, city and state departments, and the EPA. It is not recommended and is a waste of money that can only ruin a septic field by introducing more digested solids then they are designed to deal with.
I will say I do not deny that your product will not digest more solids in the main tank. There are a lot of other products that also do what your product claims, but that is where they are supposed to be held. Not broken down so they move with the effluent out into the field where a natural matting takes place thus ruining the perk.
Still another site http://www.agwt.org/info/septicsystems.htm States that the use of these additives can ruin the field by introducing additional sludge and scum to be flushed into the field thus plugging the holes in the drainage pipes.
If you use a garbage disposal although not recommended, pump more often.
That is it!.
People just do not understand that for a three or four hundred dollars every three years they ...»
In fact with the invention of the low water toilet and the High Efficiency washer less water is going down the system allowing it to work even better.
Never add things that do not digest, like condoms, Tampax, chicken bones,,,,every septic pump guy has a lot of stories to tell if you want to listen. Just stay upwind of him!
;)
And use single ply toilet paper labeled as being safe for septic systems.