What is your definition of "medium?" If it is wider than a dime is thick, then you want to use something like drywall mud to seal it back up. If it is from the house settling, then the crack may return as it continues to settle.
Rather than just caulking and hoping it goes away, I think you are better off putting some mesh tape on the crack and adding a couple of thin layers of drywall mud. If you've never "mudded" before, get this book - http://www.amazon.com/Drywall-Professional-T...
A common location for this sort of crack is slightly diagonally from a corner of the door or window slanting up towards the ceiling. It is usually caused by the framing wood of the header shrinking as it dries in a new home. It can be avoided if the drywallers use proper techniques.
But if this is what you have, you need to mud and tape to refinish.
If it is something else or caused by settling, the builder did something wrong in building the
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house and you could be in for bigger problems.
If the crack is a long straight line it is more than likely from poor quality sheet rock finishers using mud that was too wet, and it shrank as it dried.
Not sure what medium size is but you could try spackle and paint then go with the tape and mud if it doesn't work. I am a homeowner not a pro, so I try to do things cheaply and simply.
Nichters on track with this. Vertical cracks over doors and windows are caused by shrinking of the headers and if the sheetrock was put onto the wall surrounding the door in small sections. The simple closing of the door causes this weak spot to crack.
Angle cracks are typical settlement of the structure itself. If you were to draw a right angle off of this crack towards the floor this would point you to the area in which the movement has
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occurred. Perhaps something was removed below or altered? Heavy furniture in that area? In any regard, you need to properly repair this so it lowers the chance that it will happen again.
I would suggest that you use a fiberglass tape, its a bit stronger then paper tape and should last a bit longer. Also I would suggest to use the mix yourself type of spackle not the pre-mixed stuff. It dries faster, shrinks less and tends to be a bit harder and less prone to cracks. If you take your time, mixing a little bit at a time just enough to cover the area. carefully cover it up. Many thin layers are better then trying to do it once. As this stuff gets hard, its real hard to sand if you put on to much. You need to do a little area at first, then with each coat go out a few inches more to each side. This will create a smooth surface that can be hidden easily. If you put to much on at the beginning, you will end up seeing the bump on the wall. Once done, properly prime and paint.
And do NOT wash out residue as it sets into the plumbing system! It will still set in he trap under the sink.
There is an Easysand setting compound also that is easier to sand out high and rough spots, but it is not nearly as strong because it contains less of the "glue" that makes it strong in order to
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make it easier to sand.
A compromise between the two for a DIY is to use the Easysand product, and mix it with acril60 or Weldbond or white glue instead of water. This extends the working time, makes for a smoother mix, and increases the strength of the product without making it quite as terribly hard to sand out.
What is your definition of "medium?" If it is wider than a dime is thick, then you want to use something like drywall mud to seal it back up. If it is from the house settling, then the crack may return as it continues to settle.
You can get it used for $4. Definitely worth it.
But if this is what you have, you need to mud and tape to refinish.
If it is something else or caused by settling, the builder did something wrong in building the ...»
If the crack is a long straight line it is more than likely from poor quality sheet rock finishers using mud that was too wet, and it shrank as it dried.
Angle cracks are typical settlement of the structure itself. If you were to draw a right angle off of this crack towards the floor this would point you to the area in which the movement has ...»
I would suggest that you use a fiberglass tape, its a bit stronger then paper tape and should last a bit longer. Also I would suggest to use the mix yourself type of spackle not the pre-mixed stuff. It dries faster, shrinks less and tends to be a bit harder and less prone to cracks. If you take your time, mixing a little bit at a time just enough to cover the area. carefully cover it up. Many thin layers are better then trying to do it once. As this stuff gets hard, its real hard to sand if you put on to much. You need to do a little area at first, then with each coat go out a few inches more to each side. This will create a smooth surface that can be hidden easily. If you put to much on at the beginning, you will end up seeing the bump on the wall. Once done, properly prime and paint.
And do NOT wash out residue as it sets into the plumbing system! It will still set in he trap under the sink.
There is an Easysand setting compound also that is easier to sand out high and rough spots, but it is not nearly as strong because it contains less of the "glue" that makes it strong in order to ...»
A compromise between the two for a DIY is to use the Easysand product, and mix it with acril60 or Weldbond or white glue instead of water. This extends the working time, makes for a smoother mix, and increases the strength of the product without making it quite as terribly hard to sand out.
Have heard of the Durabond however setting in drain pipes.
Great advice on products Nichter!