Yes...but the use of the Item needs to be addressed. When wax only is used it should be an item that will not see a lot of wear and tear. I often use it as the sole finish on some of my jewelry boxes. I use the wax line from Brixwax...these come in tints as well as "plain"
As a slightly more durable finish...linseed oil...then past wax...this will bring some color to the party.
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In my home I used linseed oil as the only finish for the jatoba flooring in my master bedroom. Its relatively cheap...and provides a basic level of protection.
as far as floor finishes go check out my article of them.
I have seen my grandfather when I was a young lad, lol used bees wax as a finish over linseed oil. I assume it worked the same as paste wax these days? I know it took forever to finish the tables and items he made.
Woodbridge....one finish I use quite a bit on some small items is "Howards feed + wax" it is a blend of orange oil and beeswax...This on Unfinished Cherry is pretty awesome...it allows the patina to develop perfectly.
I am a MinWax user first. Whether I am after a certain color or a neutral finish, I still put that on the wood. After you have protected the wood, wax to your heart is happy, but you will be doing that over and over. There are so many finishes out there which will leave your job looking like you just waxed day-after-day, and you won't have to. Yeh chemicals!
If there is a finish on the peice to start with you must sand with a med grit sandpaper to remove the shine. If you are starting with untreated pine start by applying a wood conditioner to open the pores and accept stain more easily. I like to finish my wood with Varathane Polyshades stain/sealer first. Apply a light coat of polyshades and allow to dry. Don't sop mid stroke or you may have a "dry" line where the stain stopped an started. Use a triple 0 steel wool and rub gently with
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the grain to you'll get a slight haze. Use a damp paper towel to take of sanding dust. Wipe with dry towel. Apply a second light coat of polyshades. Sand again with steel wool and wipe with damp paper towel. Wipe with dry towel. I use Minwax in Natural. This time take a lint free rag (ie. old face cloth, t-shirt) an spread out a 1 ft square. Put a tablespoon or two into the center and gather the corners into your hand like a little purse or pouch. With the other hand grab the lump of wax and twist the bottom of the "purse until the tension forces all the wax into a tight ball and just starts to force wax through the cloth. Put the ball into the palm of you hand and wipe on the project. From this point it's like waxing a car. Rub all over in small sections and buff off within 10 min. This finish will look hand rubbed and will have a satin warn feel but be protected enough for most wear situations. You can also use this method over latex eggshell paint and it wil give an antique feel like milk paint. The most important part... Don't rush yourself!!
As a slightly more durable finish...linseed oil...then past wax...this will bring some color to the party. ...»
In my home I used linseed oil as the only finish for the jatoba flooring in my master bedroom. Its relatively cheap...and provides a basic level of protection.
as far as floor finishes go check out my article of them.
http://www.networx.com/article/exotic-wood-f...
http://www.howardproducts.com/feednwax.htm