Diane, while it is not impossible, you would need to even the sub-floor out before putting the laminate down. This could be as simple as placing down thin plywood before the laminate.
Having said that, tile will stand up much better to the rigors of kitchen life than laminate will. Of course, you'd still need to level out the floor prior to tile as well.
Diane, I have to agree with their answers, The floor leveling is easy part with many of the products available today.
But moisture is a big concern as it can get between the very tiny spaces between the boards and cause them to swell slightly. This causes the edge to lift and begin to cup. In fact even using the steam mops on them which appears to all the rage these days. The steam is forced between the wood
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sections and damages the floor faster then just using a damp mop.
However all is not lost. You still can use wood floors, but you need to use real wood floors that have been properly placed down on a level sub floor and have been properly finished and sealed. Bit more money but you get a floor that will last a much longer time and feel much better under your feet.
My wife and I like the laminate flooring we put in our kitchen a year ago. Our 5 kids are now adults, living elsewhere, and no grand kids nearby so spills are less likely to happen. I wear slippers in the house and laminate, with the pad underneath, is much easier on the feet to walk on.
I have to clarify that I am actually a fan of laminate in the right situation. In a low-traffic area, you can get the look of hardwood for a lot less, and it's durable and attractive. I just don't think kitchens are the place for them. Consider putting that oak laminate somewhere else and finding some tile to fall in love with. There are so many tile options out there, there has to be something in your taste and budget.
Diane, there are laminates that are just fine around water. The Formica brand is one.
The leveling depends on why it is so uneven. if the support structure is sound, then the minor fluctuations can be dealt with using a SLC - Self Leveling Compound
I saw a display in my local lumberyard with this. They had a quart mason jar of water epoxied to the sample at a joint. It has been there for years now and still has the same amt of water and no swelling or failure at the seam.
If you want laminate because you like the look of wood but are cost conscious you may consider doing a tile that's made to look like wood. I saw some at the So Cal location of these guys...http://www.flooranddecoroutlets.com/. Good luck.
i just got a email im sorry i thought i thanked everyone for their immediate answers and help once again thanks for every ideas and help for me to deceide on laminate flooring.
We just had our kitchen done with laminate from lumber liquidators, and our floor was unlevel by where the old fridge had sat. They applied shims, plywood and then leveled it out with thin set...turned out great! Can't even tell where there were issues if you didn't know it previously. So tell hubby he is wrong...I always love when I can help...haha.
Having said that, tile will stand up much better to the rigors of kitchen life than laminate will. Of course, you'd still need to level out the floor prior to tile as well.
But moisture is a big concern as it can get between the very tiny spaces between the boards and cause them to swell slightly. This causes the edge to lift and begin to cup. In fact even using the steam mops on them which appears to all the rage these days. The steam is forced between the wood ...»
However all is not lost. You still can use wood floors, but you need to use real wood floors that have been properly placed down on a level sub floor and have been properly finished and sealed. Bit more money but you get a floor that will last a much longer time and feel much better under your feet.
The leveling depends on why it is so uneven. if the support structure is sound, then the minor fluctuations can be dealt with using a SLC - Self Leveling Compound
I saw a display in my local lumberyard with this. They had a quart mason jar of water epoxied to the sample at a joint. It has been there for years now and still has the same amt of water and no swelling or failure at the seam.