side is a spandex-like fabric, the other is neoprene rubber. Apply contact cement to the bottom of the chair leg, then stick the fabric side of the mouse pad piece to the bottom. The stuff is thin enough that it doesn't noticeable change the height of the chair, yet keeps the chair from moving around.

"personalities" of the various woods used in period construction. White oak is, without question, my favorite for its beauty, work-ability, and range of application. Furniture of the Arts & Crafts period, the first and arguably only truly American style, is unique in that one can fill an entire room with the style to create a visual harmony. However, one cannot do the same with any other style without the room becoming a visual cacophony.

describe. The secret is a product called "Floetrol" (For latex paints) or "Penetrol" (For oil-based paints). These products are made by Flood (www.flood.com) and are readily available at "The BORG." (Big Orange Retail Giant). Mixed in the correct proportions, one can roll or brush paint irrespective of direction, without a single brush mark. The end result looks like a sprayed on paint application.

being evasive when I reply, "As much or as little as you want." The effect is achieved based not on the wood used, but the colors used. Success is based on three things: 1) Accuracy, 2) Accuracy, and 3) Accuracy. Notice that each piece of wood is, in fact, two equilateral triangles. A dead-on accurate mitre-saw or table saw jig is essential. If your budget permits purchasing three different color woods Walnut, Mahogany and Maple will work just fine. However, if your budget does not allow for such, then use a single species and dye or stain the wood to achieve the color. A blond-colored wood such as Birch, Aspen, et. al. will work perfectly well. You simply dye or stain 1/3 with a dark Walnut, another 1/3 with a Cherry, leaving the remaining 1/3 a natural color. Ebonizing (Making the wood look Black) is such a simply process that it is almost embarrassing. The process I use involves strong Tea, White Vinegar, and Steel-wool Pads.

pun) It comes down to having a good primer base and a quality satin or semi-gloss color. The biggest thing to remember is the old saying, "You get what you pay for." You can go to the local "MegaMart" and believe you got a good price on the paint, but you will quickly find that you are having to put three or more coats in order for the paint to cover. At a professional resource such as Sherwin-Williams; yes you will pay a bit more, but you will ultimately save yourself considerable time. The folks there will also have a vast amount of experience to find you the best product for the application. I am also a member of the "Less Gloss is Better Club" (I think we have a "kegger" planned for next Thursday.)

that can be accomplished between commercials. :o) While the International Building Code provides guidance on the vast majority of structural requirements, when remodeling, all bets are off. I'm certain our friends at Woodbridge Environmental will agree. My most challenging project in the past involved the removal of two load-bearing walls and the installation of specially engineered floor joists to accommodate a customer's 4000 lbs pipe organ in a second-story room. To add insult to injury, the room was directly above a wide-open 3-car garage.