units for the front and back. If they are ill fitting or damaged, putting up a storm door is just putting off the inevitable. Plus, storm doors do not have an energy rating. While it might help with the draft, the glass is primarily a tempered, clear glass. Plus, for what you can spend on a storm door, you could buy a complete new door unit and, if you all are handy, could have it put in in no time. Instead, do some research on fiberglass door units. Fiberglass does not warp, dent, or crack. I would highly recommend it for the back door since it is exposed to the elements. If you decide on these units, you can "stain" them with a gel-based stain or paint them. Also, some of the options include type of threshold, hinges, door lock layout, and, even, Low E2. Just somemore food for thought for you.

the "brass" look, here is one option. Take a fine grit sandpaper and very gently sand the "shine" off of the trim. Second, protect the glass around the entire shower with a good painter's tape. Third, take your fingernail (if you have any) and edge the tape so that it is "sealed" against any rough looking edge. Foruth, purchase a primer-based paint from your local home improvement store in whatever color coordinates with your knew handles, etc. Another option would be to go with a gloss white since you have white tile, etc. Then, take a small brush (some like a 1" foam brush since this is a small job) and make slow, steady strokes from top to bottom. Once the paint has dried and you are positive it is ok to remove the tape, slowly take the tape off the shower and remove any access paint. That way you will change the trim without having to purchase another shower door. Hope that this works for you and have a great day!!

like a "buffet" top with a vessel sink. Another choice, would be to build it up with possibly 2" material and then "face" it with a flat decorative trim to "hide" the differential. Then you could simply put on a laminated countertop, marble countertop, or a thicker stone top. I wish you the best...

or more. Therefore, there is a possibility that the stem is brass or plastic. The first thing that I would recommend, if you want to try to find "true" replacement handles, is to cut-off the water and take out the stems. You need to be careful and not strip them with the tool that you are taking them out with. Then, once you have the stems (since you live in Rome, Ga.), take it either to Southern Pipe, Home Depot, Lowe's, or Calhoun Wholesale in Calhoun, Ga. and show them the stems. They should be able to look it up in the stem book to see what the company is that made the fixture. Once that is know, there might be a possibility that you can order replacement handles from their vendor. However, Home Depot and Lowe's sells "universal" handles (cross, porcelain, etc.) that tighten up with a screw and "clamps" onto the original stem. It is not the "perfect" answer, but it is something that would work. Just to let you know, I have worked in the home remodeling/plumbing industry since 1984. I wish you the best.

it was applied with when these tile were put down. Also, it could be because there are other tiles that have issues but these tiles are getting all the damage (water drainage, etc.). To be honest, would check each tile and verify that the tiles are all in good shape and if they are't possible take them off and check the subwall that was used and the adhesive to make sure that a waterproof substance was used under the tile so that you do not have hidden water damage that will cost you more money down the road.

cement and didn't eventually flake off?

temperature.... if it's high humidity and hot, it can dry up pretty fast.

cleaning) is to use kilz paint on it to seal out any type of residue. once this is done, you can then paint it to whatever color that you are wanting. please be aware of the type of kilz products that you use. the oil base can have a strong vapor. follow directions on ventilation in the room and clean up.