We considered replacing the mirror altogether, but decided to go the less expensive route first and see how long it would buy us.

*Questions and unexpected events that arose during the project:

I didn't know how well the mirror was attached to the wall. I also didn't know how well my adhesive would adhere to the mirror and trim.

* Cost Comments:

1"x4" MDF (32 ft) - $20

1/2 birch plywd - $15

Trim (40 ft) - $20

Crown (3 ft) - $4.50

Lights - $60

*My motivation to do this project:

The mirror was large and an eye sore. We wanted something a little nicer.

*Project Steps:

The first step was to replace the single light fixture with matching twin ones. I ran the wiring, secured the boxes and mounted the new lights. This was required due to the shelving unit. I then measured out the surface and determined the size of the shelving unit. Then I purchased the materials and started designing as I cut. The shelving unit was assembled and attached first. It was ~2 inches higher than the mirror and secured to a stud to help support the mirror against the wall. The trim and molding was measured, cut and secured using GOOP adhesive and tape to hold in place until it was dry.

Advice:

Don't assume the mirror is attached to the wall well enough to hold the additional weight. Make sure it is supported fully.

Do measure twice and cut once.

Materials:

Wood, MDF, Trim - $0.00

Light fixtures - $0.00

The only consideration was doing it myself or paying a contractor. Several estimates were in the thousands of dollars. I chose to do it myself and design as I went.

*Questions and unexpected events that arose during the project:

I underestimated the amount of wood in some cases, but that was an easy fix.

* Cost Comments:

20 - 2"x4"x8' - $50

6 - 48"x1/2"x8' sheets mdf - $90

1 - 48"x3/4"x8' sheet birch plywood - $35

2 - 4 cont.

*My motivation to do this project:

The living room was a little bare on the wall with the fireplace especially given it is a two story room. Plus we wanted extra storage space.

*Project Steps:

I researched designs in magazines, books and online to find the ideal look for the bookshelves. Once I had a rough draft in my mind, I started drafting it with measurements on paper. Once I was ready, I made several trips to the store picking out the supplies. Since I knew they would be painted, I had to determine which parts would be wood versus MDF. I added this into the design. Here are some of the specifics to take into account. I may have missed a step or two, but this gives you the overall picture.

1. Measured space and built base frame out of 2x4's

2. Surrounded front and sides of the base cabinets with MDF

3. Cut 3/4" birch to desired size for top of base cabinets

4. Mounted with 4" wood screws to base frame.

5. Measured desired hight of book cases and built frame out of 2x4's and MDF as pictured.

6. Mounted them to base cabinet and connected at top with wood screws

7. Cut desired shape for front of book cases out of MDF and installed with brad nailer 1 1/4" nails

8. Cut and attach desired trim and trim designs with 1 1/4" nails

9. Purchase pre made doors or cut and install with hinges and knobs.

10. Hold scrap pegboard against inside of bookcases resting on base cabinet.

11. Tape off the holes that will not be needed on the pegboard.

12. Use white spray paint (or desired color of finished product) to spray the holes onto the bookcase sides.

13. Use drill and bit (matching peg size) to drill the desired shelf mount holes. Ensure a rubber stopper is on the bit to prevent drilling all the way through the side wall.

14. Measure and cut shelves and add trim to the front for a finished look

15. Prime and paint

16. Enjoy!

Advice:

Don't rush....measure twice, cut once.

Do use the same tape measure when measuring the space and measuring the cut on the wood.

Do prime the finished product before painting.

Materials:

Wood, MDF & Trim - $385.00

*Options I considered for this project:

I considered the following 3 options:

1. A ground level deck made of pressure treated decking materials

2. Paying a contractor to extend the patio with additional concrete

3. Replacing with a paver patio, which is the choice I went with.

*Questions and unexpected events that arose during the project:

This project was relatively straightforward. However, I greatly underestimated the wear and tear on my back and knees while performing the tasks to complete this project. I saved money by hauling the stone and supplies myself, but that also meant I had to pick each item up at least two times. The store personnel helped me load it into the truck. I then had to move it once from the truck to the backyard and at least a second time when installing it. Next time I would have the materials delivered for a nominal fee. I also underestimated the amount of sand and paver base needed to complete the job. My tip is buy more than you think you need and return the unused portion. you also want to buy ~10% more than enough pavers just in case you make some mistakes when cutting.

* Cost Comments:

560 stone pavers (6"x12") = $1,114

20 bags of paver base = $70

20 bags of paver sand = $70

6 pressure treated 2x4's = $39

*My motivation to do this project:

We desired more room outside for parties and such. The patio was too small and was barely enough room for a 4 person table w/ umbrella and 2 adirondack chairs. This was a much needed improvement to the outdoor living area.

*Project Steps:

I researched the different types of pavers, but knew I wanted something with a natural look to it. I found this particular paver at The Home Depot. I estimated how much paver base and sand I needed and the color of each that would go with the paver color. Once I was ready to start, I measured the desired area and used stakes and string to mark it off. I then added pressure treated 2x4's to frame the patio area. The area was larger than the original patio. The parts that were not on the patio concrete had to be built up at a level height with the patio. This required crushed rock and paver base. Once level, I started adding the pavers in the desired pattern. I was careful to mix the shades of the pavers so that it blended throughout the patio area. Once I reached areas that required a smaller paver, I used a circular saw with a masonary blade to make the desired cut. You really only have to go 1/4" through as you can use a rubber mallet and a stone chisel to finish the job. Once all the pavers are down, I swept sand into the cracks to make it a tight walking surface.

Advice:

Do find a stone that compliments your exterior house color and materials.

Do take your time and do it right so that it will withstand the weather and last a long time

Don't worry about minor imperfections in the stones as they add character

Materials:

Stone pavers - $0.00

Paver base - $0.00

Paver sand - $0.00

Pressure treated 2x4 - $0.00

Masonary blades - $0.00

Stone chisel - $0.00