get done anything you want with professional results except interior design or civil engineering services. I won't write a estimate until you know exactly whatcha want done, with and when.

Many "contractors" flat out lie about insurance. Always ask them to prove it. They should be carrying forms from their agents that verify their various policies and bonds are current. Be leery of those saying and showing they carry workman's comp. It's horribly expensive so many just have coverage on the supervisors and then use noncovered subcontractors to do the actual work tho you're being charged for their coverage, too. That helps them increase the profits from your job. There may be a way to check on that from the agent.

on the sheetrock got lifted when the paper was removed. It's common to occur when dry-stripping the top layer to make wetting down then removing the backing easier. There's a water-based product made by Zinsser called Gaurdz that was made just for that problem. You cut out the blisters with a razor knife then apply the product. Once dry you patch the areas, retexture the spots if needed then repaint. Zinsser's website will have all the info you need.

lumber. Many contractors that specialize in home repairs buy treated lumber for future jobs and keep those stored so the chemical solutions can evaporate out before being used. That way there's no delay for painting so they get paid in full faster plus makes the property owner happier!

that'll soak into the sisal plus provide some water resistance. Some mfg's have bases that can be tinted to various colors. You could apply it with a sprayer (hvlp, garden, Wagner hand-held electric buzzer, etc) and do both sides.

residue enough to allow it to be scraped off. It may take off the paint and texture too, but that's easily fixed if the walls have a smooth finish.

them out of messing with the cabinets and trim just in case they have a change of mind along the way. Think I've repaired and repainted 10 kitchens that were previously fauxed for each one I was asked to do!

reccommended on the finishing label found on either end. Many say to use acrylic paints only since the primer used isn't compatible with oil-based alkyd paints.

If the paint is fairly new then let it cure out for several weeks before sanding out the brush marks. Use 3M's green paper since it cuts cooler and doesn't clog up as fast as the others. Add a drying retarder like Flood's Flo-trol to acrylics or Penetrol for alkyds so the paint will level off after application. On paneled doors you do the inside the panels first, the short stiles between the panels second, the longer stiles third then the long ends last. Or do like me and work fast from the top to bottom doing everything along the way so the paint doesn't have time to set-up. I don't bother to ensure one-coat coverage since 2 thinner coats are easier to apply plus dry faster. It also helps to have the lockset and dead bolt removed during painting. If you need to close the door after each coat then most weather stripping on the frame can be removed first then reinserted once done.

scraper or putty knife. Once the bulk of it's off then try some liquid solvents to lift off the rest. Sometimes hot soapy water and a wire brush will get the rest if it's latex.

a slew of mistinted paint at Sherwin-Williams then had me apply those to make her wood frame house look like a crazy gypsy wagon. Once done it looked quite zany like your table!