Before heading out to celebrate this Independence Day, we wanted to share our latest addition to our Atlanta remodeling resources on the web. While there is no shortage of offers for Free
Remodeling Estimates, one must be cautious that comparing these Free Estimates is about as easy as comparing apples and oranges.
Some questions we ask our prospective clients are:
-Have you ever compared three estimates before? They will likely be in three different formats. How will you know what is and is not included?
-How does the prospect of change orders being presented to you on a regular basis once the job starts make you feel?
-Are you looking for a firm price that is unlikely to change OR are you interested in an attractive low price which goes up and up because the contractor simply bid 'what was on the plans' or low-balled the estimate to win the project?
Read More On Our Website: http://www.akatlanta.com/-Free-Estimate-For-...
Commented on Jul 07, 2012
I add 5% to each estimate to offset expenses occurred figuring "free" estimates. I can do or
get done anything you want with professional results except interior design or civil engineering services. I won't write a estimate until you know exactly whatcha want done, with and when.
Many "contractors" flat out lie about insurance. Always ask them to prove it. They should be carrying forms from their agents that verify their various policies and bonds are current. Be leery of those saying and showing they carry workman's comp. It's horribly expensive so many just have coverage on the supervisors and then use noncovered subcontractors to do the actual work tho you're being charged for their coverage, too. That helps them increase the profits from your job. There may be a way to check on that from the agent.
may be backing from old wallpaper or the paper from the drywall. It had never been primed before the wallpaper was first installed now what do I need to do?
Commented on Jun 19, 2012
Did the bubbles go away or deminish some what after the paint dried? If so then the paper face
on the sheetrock got lifted when the paper was removed. It's common to occur when dry-stripping the top layer to make wetting down then removing the backing easier. There's a water-based product made by Zinsser called Gaurdz that was made just for that problem. You cut out the blisters with a razor knife then apply the product. Once dry you patch the areas, retexture the spots if needed then repaint. Zinsser's website will have all the info you need.
I had some rotton wood replaced with treated lumber on outside of my condo. Does this need to dry out for a while before it it primed with oil based primer and painted? One painter said
yes and one said no. It's supposed to start raining and continue for 3 days. Need an answer ASAP please. Thanks.
Commented on Jun 19, 2012
You should ask the contractor that did the work since he was smart enough to use treated
lumber. Many contractors that specialize in home repairs buy treated lumber for future jobs and keep those stored so the chemical solutions can evaporate out before being used. That way there's no delay for painting so they get paid in full faster plus makes the property owner happier!
You'd be better off using a semi-transparent stain made for exterior decks and fencing since
that'll soak into the sisal plus provide some water resistance. Some mfg's have bases that can be tinted to various colors. You could apply it with a sprayer (hvlp, garden, Wagner hand-held electric buzzer, etc) and do both sides.
If you like it then I love it! I do some faux work for customers and always do my best to talk
them out of messing with the cabinets and trim just in case they have a change of mind along the way. Think I've repaired and repainted 10 kitchens that were previously fauxed for each one I was asked to do!
New metal doors generally only need to washed first then painted with the coatings
reccommended on the finishing label found on either end. Many say to use acrylic paints only since the primer used isn't compatible with oil-based alkyd paints.
If the paint is fairly new then let it cure out for several weeks before sanding out the brush marks. Use 3M's green paper since it cuts cooler and doesn't clog up as fast as the others. Add a drying retarder like Flood's Flo-trol to acrylics or Penetrol for alkyds so the paint will level off after application. On paneled doors you do the inside the panels first, the short stiles between the panels second, the longer stiles third then the long ends last. Or do like me and work fast from the top to bottom doing everything along the way so the paint doesn't have time to set-up. I don't bother to ensure one-coat coverage since 2 thinner coats are easier to apply plus dry faster. It also helps to have the lockset and dead bolt removed during painting. If you need to close the door after each coat then most weather stripping on the frame can be removed first then reinserted once done.