Another issue with dense packing walls is blow outs. If the walls are older and the application is done incorrectly, to much pressure can be applied to the walls causing the dry wall or the plaster to give way and bow the wall or break right through. So choosing a good quality contractor is really important in this application.

Still another issue is wiring issues. If the walls have old knob and tube wiring, you cannot bury that in dense pack insulation due to fire risks. While the insulation really does not burn, it can cause issues with the wires when it packs into the wall area. In fact any insulation used cannot bury or encapsulate knob and tube wires due to safety issues with the wires themselves.

If the walls are open, Dense packing can be achieved using a net system or a wet application method. Both work well, offer great performance and help stop air flows in the wall cavities. But again both require a quality installation contractor who knows how to do this job properly and once up followed in a few days by the drywall to prevent from falling down or bowing out.

Spray foam or injected foam is really a better choice. Even if there is insulation left in the walls. It is more expensive, but its application can be monitored due to heat created when its applied. A insulation person is using a thermal imaging camera on the inside while the application person is putting it into the walls from the outside. The heat shows them if there are voids due to framing issues that are not getting the foam. So they can drill other holes and fill those locations. As the foam expands it compresses any insulation that is inside the wall cavities. And each inch of foam runs around R7 or close to it. So a wall that is 3.5 inches thick ends up somewhere around R-21 or so. Much higher then blown in cellulose.

lastly. The very first thing you need to do before you even start doing any insulation work is to determine exactly where your house is leaking energy and where air is coming in and leaking out. Have a blower door energy evaluation done on your home. The technician will install a blower into the front door and when its running it will simulate a 20 mph breeze hitting your house on all sides. It will show you exactly where your heat is leaving and entering into your home. Doing this first will save you hundreds not only in getting the insulation done properly but show you exactly where it will make the most difference first saving you the most amount of money.

Also having a BPI certified energy audit done, you will get your home checked for safety issues to assure you do not make it to tight and also will be able to find out about any government programs that may be available to seal and insulate that you may not be aware of otherwise. In my state NJ owners are getting $5,000 back on rebate and 0% financing up to ten grand. As long as they can save up to 25% off with their energy bill. And that is done pretty easy with most homes with little effort.

Remember the ABC of insulation. Attic, Basement, Center of home. Do the attic first,. Air seal all gaps, pipes, chimneys, and wire openings first. Then insulate that area.

Then go into the basement.. Do the sills, seal off any pipe, wire, chimney locations using foam, metal etc to stop air flowing up the rooms and attic above. Once that is done, air seal and insulate all sill areas using foam board and can spray foam to seal them tight to the framing. Or of course you can have those areas spray foamed if you do not want to do it yourself.

Once that is done, then you spend your money on air sealing the middle of the house. Seal all gaps around windows, doors, outlets and lights using gaskets or caulk. It is then you should spend your money on wall insulation. This is where you will get the least payback for your efforts with attic being #1 followed by your basement being #2.

Just to understand, you have the Pella, and the Anderson brands, The reason why you hear about them is their marketing effort. Smaller companies such as the one your considering most likely make the same quality but choose to stay smaller and local and do not market them out of their area.

I personally would not be all the worried seeing they have been around for some time. If they were a new manufacture, then I would search elsewhere then.

In another example of comparison, we also use Brookhaven and Wood Mode cabinetry, who offers full extension, maple dovetail drawers, and slow close doors and drawers as a standard, where another line might be an upcharge.