8 years ago our heat pump broke. We were told we needed a new condenser at the time. It was at the end of the summer and we were broke. We purchased a 100 room air conditioner as a
temporary fix. When the cold weather came we found we had emergency heat only, but we had a woodstove and oil filled radiators that sufficed. So far so good. We have managed for eight years this way. It's probably not been the most efficient method of heating and cooling our home but, it has worked. Our power bill runs anywhere from $180.00 to $350.00 (extremely hot or cold months) a month. We are almost afraid of what will need to be done to the heat pump after sitting this long. Any ideas what we will be dealing with, and what we need to save up to spend? The heat pump was new in 1987.
Commented on Nov 18, 2011
I would recommend getting a second opinion on the problem with your heat pump. Maybe the
problem is something other than the compressor. If the unit does need to be replaced, doing the replacement during the winter months is the best time to get a really good deal on a system. HVAC contractors are begging for work in the winter and they offer specials all the time. Watch for rebates from your local power company and tax credits too.
It starts under our master bedroom door and goes into the kitchen. We think it is water. Sometimes it is darker and wider in places than at other times. We are on a cement slab with
hardwood put directly on top. We have looked everywhere for water leaks. The closest sinks and bathroom (mbath) is in the room next door but there is no sign of water there on the floor. We have turned everythin off in that bathroom and not used it for a week but it does not appear to change the line on the floor. The water meter does not move at all so whatever it is is very slow. It has been like this getting steadily worse for the past 2 months.
Does anyone have any ideas. We are hoping not to have to pull up the hardwood floor.
Commented on Nov 18, 2011
You may have a pin-hole leak in a water line that has been run through the slab. Many
established plumbing companies have leak detectors which can tell you precisely where the leak is. I would recommend contacting a plumber in your area who specializes in leak detection. If the leak is in the slab, a repiping situation may be called for.
How has your water bill been recently? is it higher than normal?
I wish I could say yes but the answer is no. I had called my air conditioner servicing
company and they sent a technician out. We went through the documentation thoroughly and together we discovered the jumper wire needed to be put in place on the thermidistat. This thermidistat has around 50 configuration options that need to be setup as well. If one is to install this thermidistat on their own, please take time to step through each configuration option and select the proper setting.
I just replaced the thermostat with a Carrier TP-PRH01-A. The previous model More thermostat was a Carrier TSTATCCPRH01-B. With the previous model thermostat the air handler's variable
speed fan would run in high speed most of the time. With the new thermostat, the air handler's variable speed fan does not run at the higher speed, at least not yet. I have only had the thermostat installed for a few hours. I have checked and double-checked the wiring from the air handler to/from the new thermostat and I have compared the wiring to the way the old thermostat was wired. Everything appears to be wired correctly. What ideas and suggestions do you have? Any and all ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Commented on Nov 14, 2011
Here is the final outcome of the investigation on this issue. A jumper wire had to be added
to the thermidistat connecting the R (Rc or Rh) terminal to the D1 terminal. Without the jumper wire, the thermidistat was making the air handler think it should run in dehumidify mode, thus causing the fan to run at slow speed. Once the jumper was added, the fan ran normally. The air handler has a variable speed fan, so the fan would start at a slower speed and then increase in speed to cool the house more efficiently.
I hope this post will assist others who may also experience this issue.
We recently entered into a time of year when the thermostat will not turn the system on as frequently as it normally does in the hotter times of the summer. The system will run an cool
for a while and then shuts off when the house reaches the set temperature. The system will sit in the off state for quite some time. After sitting like this, when the system first comes back on, I hear a rather loud grinding/jet like noise sound which appears to be coming from the area of the air handler. The sounds lasts for a few seconds and then stops. The system apears to cool normally after this noise occurs. The sound is a little hard to describe but it almost sounds like a jet plane flying over the house at a high altitude. The sound does not occur every time but when it does it happens after the system has been idle for an extended period of time.
A few days ago, I had my air conditioner repair company out to check the system. Of course we could not get the system to make the noise while the repair technician was present. He checked the system over, doing all of the normal things that are checked during a system tune-up. He could not find anything wrong. The sound still persists on an intermittent basis. What could this sound be and is it cause for concern? No parts have been replaced but the unit was checked out a few days ago.
Make : Carrier
Model : 38YXA048331
Air Handler is FV4BNF005
Commented on Oct 24, 2011
The noise happens whether the fan is already running or not. I have been told that it is most
likely refrigerant noise caused by the compressor starting up after being idle for a while. My question is, what causes this and is it harmful to the system?