So I need a new water heater ... I've requested quotes from several plumbers in the area. I've got quotes from $650 to $1300. They are all apparently licensed and supposedly using
professional equipment (not big box store tanks). My confusion comes in with the code stuff ...
All told me that my tank was not up to code (16yrs old) and I would need an expansion tank in addition to the new tank. One told me I didn't need an expansion tank since I had a thermal expansion VALVE already BUT, that I needed the gas line replaced with a stainless steel, poly coated flex line. None of the others mentioned that. Just for the record, the company saying "no expansion tank but a stainless steel line" was the highest quote.
My question is ... they all seem to know what they are talking about, how can I find out which is truly required? I've tried looking up the code and I am confused. Here is what I found and have been using to do research: "Section 607.3.2 of the Standard Plumbing Code states that if a system with a water heater has a backflow prevention device installed and as a result thermal expansion causes an increase in pressure, a device must be fitted to limit the pressure to 80 pounds per square inch (psi) or less."
Commented on Jun 18, 2012
Woodbridge, I am a little late on this post but, down here, the water pressure coming in from
alot of municipalities are in excess of 80 psi (some areas as high as 120 psi). Because of this, the water supply coming into the homes require pressure reducing valves be installed in-line to keep pressures in the 45-75 psi range. Doing this makes the plumbing systems closed. Yes, even a 40kbtu water heater in a closed loop can build up enough pressure to activate T&P. T&P relief valves are not intended to be a means of permanent thermal expansion control (for emergency use only). This is why they require thermal expansion tanks or valves be installed on domestic water heaters. I go on a lot of calls for new water heater installations with leaky T&Ps and the problem is almost NEVER a defective T&P. It's always either an expansion tank has failed or was never installed. Replace or install one and never get called again.
To the original poster, a good way to know what is "required", for future reference is to have your plumber to pull a permit so that the local code official actually inspects the install and either passes or fails it!
I have a sandpoint well and its pretty old, it still works im updating an old cabin that was meant for seasonal living and i have been weatherizing it for 4 years but we have NO water
pressure and its starting to irritate me lol, when you first turn the shower on you get pressure, but after that its only enough to quickly shower and rinse off the sinks dont have a problem, but i dont need pressure in them, its the shower and the spouts, i cannot have a garden it takes all day to water one
i currently have a system that's about 22 yrs old and approximately an 8 seer unit. i was told today that i'd have to have at least a 7/8" suction line if i upgrade any higher than a 13 seer unit.
Commented on Jun 08, 2012
I think it should be code that when they build a house, they should have some sort of "chase"
that linesets, condensation drains, drains for pans and gas piping can be accessed and replaced with no issue to the upstairs unit. We run into this problem with water heaters as well. New code does not allow PVC to be used as discharge piping from drain pans under water heaters. So any time we have a water heater in an attic, we have to run the 1'' CPVC drain from the pan, down the side of the house. And keep in mind, most homes that have a water heater in an attic, at least where I live, are nicer homes so customers do not really get excited about having to do this.
Water is leaking up through the grout of my kitchen floor when I stand in a certain place. My plumber tested and said it wasn't the water pipes, it is the drain pipes. A camera sent
through the pipes showed massive corrosion and even holes (the house was built in 1964 and has cast-iron pipes in the slab). He said that he'd need to dig a trench from my garage (where washing machine and water heater live), through my kitchen, across my entryway, and into a closet that connects to the bathtub drain and replace all of the pipes with new (abandoning the original pipe line). This would cost over $7,000 and not include the cost of replacing the tile and any other repairs needed (except filling in the trench).
Someone else told me that it could be done with most of the digging outside the house to route the new pipes that way. And he could do it for around $4500. But this is a handyman (with plumbing experience) and a plumber who works at a local Home Depot. The first plumber belongs to a company that has done work for me in the past, and who I trust to do it right and well (anyone remember my mainline drain repair that set me back $8,000 not that long ago?).
I'm pretty maxed out financially: new roof three years ago, mold abatement two years ago, mainline repair last year (I'm beginning to wish I'd rented!). I'm tempted to go the cheaper route and hope for the best. Any ideas?
Commented on Jun 08, 2012
A true professional will leave you with no surprises because he already anticipates the worse
case scenerio before the job begins! Let us know how your job goes! Good luck!
trying to replace the original in a ceramic bath. if we cannot locate one, will have to remove ceramic tile and replace....
Commented on Jun 08, 2012
May not be much help but, there is a place in Greensboro, NC called CS&P on Bessemer Ave. that
specializes in oddball repair parts for older plumbing fixtures (assuming yours is older). It's not THAT far from Raleigh! The guys name is Cliff and do NOT go there without your old parts in hand. Other than that, I don't know of any other place other than trying to contact American Standard, send them pictures and they may be able to help you locate the correct parts.
Side note; you CAN replace the valve without destroying the tile! What I ddo in situations like that is cut an oblong hole in the tile around the valve so the faucet (three handles, I'm again assuming) can be removed. Then after I cut it out I install a single handle valve with an oblong remodel plate. http://www.wolverinebrass.com/catalog.htm We (the company I work for) on occasion do work in Raleigh so if you get really desparate I can see about helping you with your issue.