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There is no mistaking it - we are in full-blown "pergola building season" at the farm. Ever since building our own and then a few more for friends and family a few years back - our
"hobby" has grown to making quite a few each year ( See : Building Our Farm One Pergola At A Time)
We have been so fortunate to have met a lot of wonderful new people through the process - and, more importantly, it has really helped to build the farm and fund projects like the sensory garden and new chicken coop.
We thought we would share some of the pictures, tips and hints that we have learned when it comes to building a beautiful and durable outdoor garden pergola.
A Strong Base Is The Key To A Strong Pergola:With any outdoor structure, everything starts with the base. To put it simply, don't skimp on your posts.
When working with wood, a 4 x 6" or 6 x 6" post is your best choice for long-term durability. 4 x 4" posts - although much less expensive than the thicker ones, simply won't hold up over time. They will begin to bend and bow - and within a year or two - your structure can start to look more like a curvy art sculpture than an outdoor oasis.
Choosing The Type And Thickness Of Wood:There are a lot of choices when it comes to what species and thickness of wood to use. It really comes down to personal preference. We build all of our beams and top purlin boards from 2" thick lumber. Although there are thinner and less costly options - the 2" thickness gives the piece long-term strength and durability.
Almost all of our pergolas are made from treated lumber. It's a great choice when looking to handle harsh outdoor conditions. It's also very versatile - you can leave it to weather to a natural grey patina - or paint or stain it to match almost any wood species or decor.
Cedar is another viable option, but the cost of cedar is becoming astronomical, and it is very hard to find in 2" thickness. No matter the wood species, thinner boards tend to end up like the thinner posts, bowed and curvy over time.
Securing The Structure:A lot of people ask us if its better to bury the posts, or to mount them on a concrete pad or footer. It really comes down to personal preference, as both work well.If you have an existing concrete patio - then by all means securing your posts with a bracket is the way to go. You can find simple plate anchors (Simpson ties, etc.) at most home improvement and hardware stores that do an excellent job of securing posts to concrete.
If you choose to bury your posts - make sure to dig down deep enough to get below the frost line and prevent it from heaving out of the soil. For ours on the farm we buried our posts 24" and then back-filled with packing limestone gravel and dirt.
Quite simply, the important thing is to definitely secure it! If it's not secured, all it can take is one little serious windstorm to turn your beautiful little paradise into a pile of toothpicks.
Jim and MaryIf you would like to receive our DIY & Gardening Tips every Tuesday – be sure to sign up to follow the blog via email in the right hand column, "like" us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter
The standard pantries in the house we bought last year were almost unusable. Long deep shelves and only 3-4 of them in a large closet sized area. Thank heavens they had doors. I designed
the shelves, my husband cut them out of MDF boards, I painted them with several coats of paint, and he installed them with aluminum channel. The channel allowed use of the shelf all the way to the back of the space. I counted and measured all the things in my food pantry to make the plan for how many shelves, how wide, tall and deep they needed to be. See the beginning and end result. It's so nice to be able to find things now. It turned out so nice, we did the 2nd pantry where I keep dishes, plastics, and mixed items for the kitchen!