What happens then is water displacement. The sandy partials that collect on the bottom of the tank displaces the water ever so slightly. This results in hot spots on the bottom of the tank. When this occurs the flames overheat the tank and begin to break down the steel. After many years this breakdown ends up becoming a tiny hole that is filled with this debris, oftentimes preventing the leak.

However if you decide to drain your heater after many years of not doing it, or all of a sudden you start using the heater more then normal, this sediment that has been plugging that tiny hole is flushed out, often resulting in a leak in a few days after.

So the moral is to flush yearly, but if you have not done so for many years to not touch it or you will end up with a leak.

After draining you may find that the flush hose bib valve at the bottom will not turn off. This is because of some sediment that has blocked the valve and prevented it from turning off. If that happens a hose bib cap can be purchased at the local hardware store for about $1.50 put that on and your good to go. The photo is the inside of such a valve on a hot water heater that was 6 years old and had never been flushed. We tried to empty this tank to replace with a new high efficiency tankless, next photo but the hole was so small it only trickled out. The new heater will produce enough hot water for two showers, one laundry and one dishwasher to run all at the same time.

--The most common mistake folks make when starting to paint is not using enough paint on their roller or brush. The right roller cover and brush will allow you to load up your tools with paint, making the job quicker, easier and give a better finish, doing away with Doc Holiday and the dry brush gang!

--Buy the best brush. I like Purdys. If you know how to thoroughly clean them out, then you will have no qualms about spending the money for good equipment. There should not be any 'milky water trails' coming out of the heel of the brush when you are done. When rolling bare draywall, a lambswool roller cover works best. It holds a tremendous quantity of paint and unlike synthetic roller covers, it cleans up easily and will give you years of service.

--Before you start, it helps to pre-wet your roller by dunking it in water then spinning out the excess water. This will give the paint quick, even absorption into the cover. The brush can be pre-wet as well to help the paint not dry to and stick so easily around the base. The excess water in the brush can be 'kicked out' on the toe of your workshoe.

--So you are ready to load up your equipment with paint. When rolling, don't start right next to the corner or right next to your just finished area. Instead, come out one or two roller widths and work your way back into the corner or just finished area with your full roller. Once you have the paint distributed over an area that can be completed with one roller dip, make one more pass to even it out, filling it in completely. One more thing, keep a slight bit more pressure on the leading edge of the roller. This will help avoid leaving heavy roller edges.

Just remember the three most important things: use more paint, 3X!!!

Happy Trails,

Charles Peace

#Bestof2012

Luckily, it's pretty easy to clean. Dump a couple cups of vinegar with a little bit of lemon juice (for smell) into the washing machine and set to the hottest cycle. While the washer is running, wipe down the exterior with a mixture of vinegar and water.

After the cycle is completed, clean the detergent, bleach, and fabric softener dispensers with the same mixture.