How to Strip, Sand, Paint, Stain and Age Furniture – Part 1

This is a how-to post about staining, sanding and painting two older pine wood end tables into an updated look and feel. This is a two-part series because the last two processes are picture heavy and harder to explain.
My mom, one of Renovar’s number one fans and supporters of my new endeavor, purchased 3 tables at a thrift store she frequents. I work Monday through Friday from 7:30-4:00 so I have VERY limited time to shop for furniture or projects to renew. My mom knows my tastes and abilities and is usually spot on. THANK YOU VERY MUCH MOM, these were awesome!
BEFORE: Clearly, it wasn’t too pretty – ya know, that 1990’s yellow/orange color. Sometimes, it is better to keep the 1990’s in the past…case in point:


Sanding


After that whole stripping (am I the only one that feels dirty saying that word over and over) debacle, I filled in some of the dings/dents on the legs with Elmer’s Carpenter’s Wood Filler. Once dry, I sanded all of the pieces down with an 80 grit, then 120 grit and then a 220 grit sandpapers. Did you know? The lower the number of the sandpaper grit is the rougher type of sandpaper which is good for sanding out imperfections. The middle number is good for a light sanding between coats of stain or varnish. Whilst the higher number of the grit of sandpaper is smoother which is good for the final sanding giving you a very well prepped piece, especially if you are going to stain. **When you redo furniture, it is almost always necessary to sand the piece multiple times. It really gives it the new life it is longing for. BONUS: The extra elbow grease helps you burn calories as well ~ and since we all know how much I like me some ice cream, it is a win-win in my book. Don't forget to wipe down the entire piece with a damp, lint free cloth or with a tack cloth. (In the future, I will have links to the products I use, but for now, please humor me and pretend.)
Ready Strip:


Pros:


-Low-No odor


-Environmentally friendly


-Not caustic


Cons:


-Slow (Have to wait until it turns white)


-Doesn’t take off multiple layers


-Hard to remove once dry (even following manufacturer guidelines)


-Paint on application is a thick gooey mess


Zinsser Strip Fast:



Pros:


-Super Duper Fast (Minutes not hours)


-Easy to remove


-Takes off multiple layers (if need be)


-Spray on application


Cons:


-Caustic (burns skin if it touches it)


-Plastic gloves get really hot during removal


-Strong Odor


-Messy removal
Painting


I painted one coat of Zinsser bulls-eye 123 primer for ‘all surfaces’ onto the table skirts and legs. Leaving the table tops and drawers raw and I will discuss that process in the second part of this post.
Once the primer was dry, I painted the skirts/legs with two coats of pool blue paint by Dutch Boy.
This was leftover from the first paint job on Kid 1’s room. It is a satin finish interior paint. {I know, I know. The latest and greatest craze is chalk finish paints. ROLLING MY EYES.} I can say that Iusually prefer regular old latex paint. I plan to post more on that in the future since I have done a comparison on the paint too. (Yes, I am opinionated, not all is negative, just being honest . However, after 20 years of redoing furniture as a hobby and now as a side business, I feel like I am entitled to said opinion. After all, my goal it to guide you and help make your attempts at furniture refinishing easier; and let you know pros and cons through my journey through trial and error.)
Renovar Design - A Wife, A Husband & A Hammer
Want more details about this and other DIY projects? Check out my blog post!
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