You can do a contractor search on the top of the page. But before you move ahead, tell us a bit more about the crawl space and what your trying to do with it.
Is it a crawl space that is going to be used for storage? Is there heat ducts and pipes running in it?
What type of floor do you currently have in the crawl space?
Were is the location of any insulation now?
Is the crawl space ventilated to the outside?
How do you access this crawl space?
How high or accessible is the interior of the crawl space when your in it, How high?
With these answers we can provide you with the type of improvement your looking for. There are several methods of doing exactly what you are asking for, but with the new building standards BPI and LEEDS you need to get this done properly the 1st time. While the old school methods work, just changing up on a few things will not only clean up your crawl space, but help save you money and increase your comfort in the house overall.
not storage,has duct work, no flooring, some water under standing. insulation above under the flooring, and is ventilated with a dehumidifier under. Has a door to access. Slopes from 3-4' down to 2' or less. I won't go but so far. Thank you for your reply
Oh hubby thinks we may to french drain on the driveway side. He cannot find any leaks from hot water heater or the bladder.
Ok, so you have a soil base and you access from the outside into it? Or is the door from the inside?
You need to begin like this regardless if interior or exterior access.
With ducts being located in this area you want to bring the crawl space into the heated side of the home. Or into the envelop as we say in the trades.
Doing this allows the ducts to warm the air making the floor warmer in colder months.
You need to determine where the water is coming from. Is it from gutter leaders dumping to close to the house? Or is there something else going on? Ideally you do not want any visible water.
The next thing to do is to remove what ever insulation it is that you currently have in place. It has become damp and most likely contains mold in the fibers.
Then you need to rake and level even if on a pitch the soil on the floor. Remove any sharp objects that could cut into the new vapor barrier you are about to install.
Then The next thing is to install 2 inch foam boards on all the exposed walls around the entire crawl space. Using contractors adhesive to fasten these to the walls. Be sure to leave the wood sill exposed.
Once that has been done, you need to fill the space where the floor joists are resting on top of the sills. Ideally you should use spray foam or caulking to seal the spaces where the wood meets at different angles. Even if the space appears to be tight, there is air moving through those tiny gaps. Then using block foam cut and fit between the joists tightly. Using spray foam in a can to fill any small gaps and as an adhesive also.
Once that has been done plastic ideally vinyl should be placed onto the floor and up the walls to the wood sill area. Sealing all the seams with tape or glue in the case of vinyl. This will provide you with your vapor barrier and stop the need for any dehumidifier in that enclosed space.
There is no need to insulate the floor in the ceiling of the crawl if this is done correctly. If you were in the more northern states I would suggest that the floor be foamed as well for additional R value, but where you live its not worth the expense.
This can be a DIY project if your at all handy. Materials such as foam boards are available at most home centers. The vinyl can be purchased from pool liner suppliers which is the best material to use. It can be purchased bright white and its much tougher then six mill plastic you would get at the local home centers.
If you need any more info on how to diy this yourself, drop me an email and I will contact you for more info.
Most insulation contractors do not do this type of work properly . Do a Google search for crawl space sealing contractors in your area. Ask for references on their work and if possible request that you can see some of the jobs that they have done.
And it is with great explanation in detail. If I won't clostiphobic(sp) I would do some of it myself.