Eye catching patio furniture
I installed this patio last summer, and returned this year to take some pictures for some promotions. I really like this client's choice of furniture!
Published June 9th, 2012 12:57 PM
2 of 9 comments
Willow Gates Landscaping on Jun 12, 2012Fran, this depends on the block. What you are using is a retaining wall block, and that lip is designed to increase strength. This creates what is called a "battered" wall meaning that each course steps back (typically 1/2-1"). For the pit, I would chip that lip off and lay the wall straight up; use high strength SRW glue and glue the top course. Gravity should hold the other courses in place, but if you want you can glue those courses as well. For the retaining wall, though, you should leave that lip in place. Don't forget to place clean gravel (called 2B or #57 stone around here) behind the wall, and put a perforated drain pipe in the clean gravel. IMO, the most common causes of failure of retaining walls are inadequate compaction of the subgrade and base (use a plate tamper with a rating of 7,000 pounds of centrifugal force if you can, but a bigger "jumping jack" tamper will also work) and poor drainage behind the wall. The base should be a minimum of 6" deep, and extend 6" in front and behind the wall (this typically means a 24" wide footer). The clean gravel backfill should extend 12" behind the wall. The SRW (segmental retaining wall) systems are extremely strong and durable, but installation is the key. :) Much of the installation labor is spent on things that are never seen: the base and backfill. But they are the most important parts of the wall. Good luck with your project! Take your time and consult a local contractor or dealer for advice.
Fran on Jun 12, 2012Thank you. That info will help us greatly.