Recycled Wood Tool Tote

Clint
by Clint
3 Materials
My friend Jack's wedding was coming up and I wanted to make him and the bride something from wood. I knew he wanted to get into woodwork so I thought a tool tote would be perfect. Its made from old floorboards, a hazel rod and sapele dowels, all saved from going to the dump.
I didn't have the required sized boards when I started to make the tool tote so I had to glue 2 sets of 2 planks together. This was done simply by clamping the boards together in a vice, planing down both edges to join at the same time and then gluing together. If you have the desired sized boards at hand however, this part of the step can be avoided.


The wood you'll need to make this tote as follows:


2 boards 20cm X 20cm (7 7/8" X 7 7/8")


1 board 40cm X 20cm (15 3/4" X 7 7/8")


2 boards 20cm X 10cm (7 7/8" X 3 15/16")


A branch or stick around 50cm long (19 11/16"), mine was hazel


Some hardwood to make dowels with, mine was sapele
Standing the pieces together (sans base)
Holding the pieces together as with the photo above, you can figure out where the tenons on the handle will begin. It's important to take your time on this step to make sure the tenons fit well.


Once you've transferred the inside line of the tote onto the handle you can then make the tenons. There are several ways you could do this, from whittling to using a rounding plane. I decided to use a hole saw and drill as seen in the photo below. Then a chisel and saw was all that was needed to finish it off.
A hole saw making the tenon on the handle
Saw the line, chisel off the waste
With the tenons made you can then cut the holes for the tenons to go into. These holes are in the ends of the tote, the two boards measuring 20cm X 20cm. I made the handle come about 4cm (1 9/16") from the top of the tote. Make sure to drill a hole slightly smaller than the handle's tenon, you can then keep adjusting the tenon very slightly until you get a nice snug fit.


After you've drilled the hole and got the handle to the right size you can make the ends curved. I used a tin or can to get the curve for the top of the end and my dividers or compass to draw a curve for the rest. Once you've cut one end out you can use it as a template for the end. I used a coping saw to cut mine but I think a scroll saw or band saw would be far more accurate!
The curve drawn and ready to be sawn
Once the ends are cut out you can glue them altogether. I used a frame clamp to keep the whole thing together whilst it was gluing up and added a few more clamps just to make sure. I left it overnight to dry.
A frame clamp was perfect for this job
The next day you can start thinking about the dowels. The process is quite simple with the right tools. First of all I cut a small chunk of wood about 10cm (3 15/16") in length and then split lots of little billets off with a chisel. I then whittled the billets down into dowel shapes a little bit thicker than the final size of the dowels, I bashed them through a dowel plate and made around 20 of them (I only needed 18 but made 20 in case any broke).
The dark sapele looked great as dowels
After the dowels were all ready I drilled the holes for them to go into. I decided to go for 7 dowels in each side of the tote and 2 dowels in each end. I felt that was sufficiently strong enough to hold some heavy tools (I hope!).


Make sure to taper the ends of the dowels before inserting them. This will make the whole process smoother and also decrease the chance of splitting the wood. Dab a little bit of glue on each dowel and tap them in steadily and firmly. When the sound of the tapping changes and it feels like the dowel has become one with the tote, that means it is fully inside.


Wait another day and cut the dowels off with a flush cut saw.
Cutting the dowel ends off
Now it's time for sanding and generally making the tote as smooth and appealing as possible. I used a small block plane to chamfer down the corners and edges of the tote, not only to make it look more polished but also to stop any sharp or frayed corners catching on clothes or skin.


After that I used 240 grit sandpaper and then 800 grit sandpaper to get the tote nice and smooth. I mixed Danish Oil and Mineral spirits/White spirits half and half for the finish. It seems to make the oil soak deeper into the wood, also it dries faster, its less sticky and you can get your item nice and shiny in one day.
The tool tote finished
You might want to leave it for a couple of days before you start using it, just to make sure any residue of the finish has dried off. It's also a good idea to check it periodically as its drying to make sure you wipe off any wet spots that emerge.


I made a mallet to go with it too and gave to it Jack on his wedding day, he seemed pleased with it.....the only problem is that I kinda wanted to keep it!


I hope you've enjoyed this project and I hope its been informative and helpful. Please feel free to ask me anything you like.


Happy building!
Suggested materials:
  • Wooden boards   (Recycled, saved from dump)
  • Hazel rod   (Local woodland)
  • Glue   (Amazon)
Clint
Want more details about this and other DIY projects? Check out my blog post!
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 4 comments
  • William William on Nov 22, 2016
    I love it! As an avid woodworker, I would cherish it and use it proudly. Great job.
    • Clint Clint on Nov 22, 2016
      Ah thanks a lot William, that's a lovely comment. I hope it gets used a lot and obtains all the scrapes and dents that go with the work!
  • Cori Widen Cori Widen on Nov 23, 2016
    Awesome project, and such an amazing post!!!
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