Refinish kitchen cabinets

Pam Levario
by Pam Levario
Do i need to strip my kitchen cabinets if i just want a much darker stain on them?
  17 answers
  • Connie Carroll Connie Carroll on Dec 24, 2013
    It depends on whether they are just stained or if they have been lacquered or polyurethaned as well. Stain needs to be able to penetrate the pores of the wood in order to be effective. Applied directly over poly or lacquer, the stain will either run off or be absorbed randomly leading to a mess. It is tempting to try one of the polyurethanes that have stain in them; Minwax Polyshades, for example, but again, consistency could be an issue.
  • Sherrie Sherrie on Dec 24, 2013
    You can stain over a polyurthene finish. I use this method on yellow pine because it never absorbs evenly, and on thin wood veneer, because I always risk ruining the veneer if I sand it. But saying that over stained finish like your cabinets I wouldn't. It has a stain alread and a finish, the finish has been up for awhile it has absorbed grease and you need to already know what finish is on it. It would be very hard to do and have it come out right. When I do any finish I either strip it or sand it first. I then use the polyurthene, then stain. But it is always in a clean piece, it is worth it to do your home work, and to prepare a piece. It comes out professional and prefect. When you don't do it this way since cabinets are a very expensive investment you risk a huge mess.
  • Joanne Sanders Joanne Sanders on Dec 24, 2013
    If you're not going to strip them, you definitely need to at least wash them down well with TSP.
  • IF THEY ARE ALREADY STAINED IN A LIGHTER COLOR THAN WHAT YOU WANT, YOU JUST NEED TO CLEAN THEM REALLY WELL WITH A WOOD SOAP LIKE (MURPHY) OR ANYTHING THAT IS OK FOR WOOD. AFTER THEY ARE DRY THEN YOU CAN STAIN THEM ANY COLOR YOU WANT. GOOD LUCK.
  • S.a.mcmann-Morelli S.a.mcmann-Morelli on Dec 24, 2013
    mine are only painted
  • Jodi Stevens Jodi Stevens on Dec 24, 2013
    I STRIPPED MINE 1ST, AN THEY WERE STAINED DARKER, AN THEY LOOK AMAZING AFTER THE SHELACK WENT ON WOW, I WAS SO HAPPY I DIDN'T PAINT THEM.
  • Through the Dutch Door Through the Dutch Door on Dec 24, 2013
    I did not strip mine completely, just roughed them up a bit and stained over them. You can't even tell.
  • Spheramid Enterprises Spheramid Enterprises on Dec 25, 2013
    There is no simple yes or no answer, it depends largely on what is already on the cabs. Often a degrease and liquid sandpaper will work, or sometimes a toner spray is needed to burn into the existing finish. A poly over a lacquer is a recipe for disaster in time, and I would avoid the "polystains" like the plague, it can be a huge hassle to get an even coverage and acceptable job if not done with great care. If you DIY it, expect to be looking at what ever flaws you create for a long time, a PRO kitchen refacer would be the safest and best alt. other wise, you may be in for a living hell.
  • Lrc225795 Lrc225795 on Dec 25, 2013
    In Sherrie's comment she said poly first then stain. This may be in reverse. Poly seals and will seal out the stain. Best to check first so you are not sorry later. Who knows, maybe you can poly first. Even staining can be a "bear" even on a new surface let alone one that has been stained previously and without great preparation. "Haste makes waste." Do not hurry the project. It will be obvious where you do.
  • Tradition Wood Works Tradition Wood Works on Dec 25, 2013
    If they are/were a commercially made cabinet; eg, Kraftmaid, Shenandoah, etc, it's pretty likely they have a lacquer finish on them, you can sand that finish, maybe not completely off but it should be sanded evenly, for best results if should be sanded off. then you can apply the stain over it. We do stain, then apply a sealer coat of lacquer, lightly sand it then apply a darker stain, or another coat of the original to adjust the color or add depth to the color then apply the finish coat on occasion. Most topcoat finishes do not play well with others. Like it was said above, avoid any poly stain, they are only marginally good on a new application and would be disaster on something like this. I would not put a polyurethane finish back on, it takes forever to dry and it's hard to get even. Use a shellac, Zinnser makes a great product, you can buy at the big box stores, drys fast, you can lightly sand between coats and build up a nice smooth finish in a day or two. I would try contacting a local woodworking facility they may be able to help you out, sure you may pay some money out of pocket but if you run into problems doing it yourself then need to fix it after you're going to be ahead in the end.
  • Spheramid Enterprises Spheramid Enterprises on Dec 26, 2013
    The one issue with shellac I note is that it is always the same gloss, that can be an issue. Also, I doubt it's approved from the KBMA but that wouldn't really matter here, but in new work, I like to see approved finishes and methods to cover my butt in case of issues down the road warranty wise. Same with any wood work, there are standards set forth to level the playing field, approved means you are in concert with the rules and many architects and builders require adherence to one of the levels of quality in the bid process, weeds out the inept somewhat. http://www.awinet.org/store/publications.cfm Architectural Woodwork Standards 1st Edition (2009) Replaced the: AWI Quality Standards Illustrated 8th Edition Version 2.0 (2005) Soft Cover: Member $12.50 Non-Member $125.00 Hardback: Member $18.50 Non-Member $185.00 The Architectural Woodwork Standards (AWS) is the guide for the specification, construction, and installation of interior architectural woodwork. This first edition of the AWS is a definitive reference manual designed to simplify and clarify guidelines, information and principles required for fabrication, and finishing and installation of architectural woodwork. It provides design professionals with a logical and facile means to comprehensively specify woodwork elements. The AWS includes compliance criteria to ensure that all millwork manufacturers are competing equally when bidding on projects and they are obligated to perform work of equal quality. The Standards, as in both previous publications, encompass three grades of quality: Economy, Custom and Premium. The AWS also includes a comprehensive glossary of terms. Adopted and published jointly by Architectural Woodwork Institute (AWI), the Architectural Woodwork Manufacturers Association of Canada (AWMAC), and the Woodwork Institute (WI), effective October 1, 2009. Click here to view Table of Contents. Click here to view sample pages. One AWS Soft Cover is included with each new membership. AWI members will be provided with new editions as they are published. AWS Cabinet Fabrication Handbook 1st Edition (2009) Member $5.00 Non-Member $40.00 This handbook is a quick reference guide for the firms and individuals utilizing the Architectural Woodwork Standards (AWS), 1st Edition. This handbook only includes the General and Product portions of the AWS Section 10, and relevant portions of the Glossary. To simplify the presentation of information in this handbook, all reference numbers have been removed. All other details can be found within the AWS.
  • Sherrie Sherrie on Dec 26, 2013
    Umm No I didn't get it backwards. I poly first when I have a piece of yellow pine furniture, or veneer, or a piece of furniture with different inlaid wood. Yellow Pine won't absorb stain, inlaid wood will absorb stain differently, a thin veneer also won't absorb stain evenly. But I always prepare the wood by cleaning it, or stripping, or sanding. I have been stain furniture over 20 years. It is a way to ensure you get even coverage. They also spray a lot of finishes and sealers. This is a one shot deal. The sealer and polyurthene is mixed together and given one shot of spray. Easier quicker....bit I don't like the way it feels when it's dry!
    • See 1 previous
    • @Spheramid Enterprises Great advice Duane. BTW, Bob's book is "Understanding wood finishing"
  • Spheramid Enterprises Spheramid Enterprises on Dec 27, 2013
    Thanks, the titles escaped my pre coffee brain, I even have the book somewhere. Maybe I can give some info on long chain polymers and short chain polymers and crosslinking? Or monomers and catalysts and pre cat vs. non cat..LOL Metallic dryers, flow out additives, fish eye reducers, film thickness testers and Sward hardness scales...ohh or Ford Vs. Zahn viscosity cups. Sure to put the average person to sleep reading that.
  • Sherrie Sherrie on Dec 27, 2013
    Maybe this is why my success rate isn't great with dense wood, or inset wood. So even through I am embarrassed I also am very humbled. Even a old dog can learn new tricks. This wasn't my first response. I was embarrassed . So I did look up a whole bunch of information you provided. What I learned was exciting.
  • Sherrie Sherrie on Dec 27, 2013
    Seems I need to buy a brand new book!
  • Sherrie Sherrie on Dec 27, 2013
    Have you ever been humbled? : )
  • You do not need to strip wood before painting it if the wood has been previously painted, and if you're simply changing the paint color, or refreshing the paint. If the wood has not been painted previously, but has a varnish, and you want to re-stain based on the original color, then yes, you will need to strip the wood first.