Sheephive - an Unconventional Sheep Shelter

Stephen Taylor
by Stephen Taylor
2 Materials
$56
2 Days
Easy
Following on from making "The Playhive" for my goats, I decided that a larger version would make an unconventional shelter in one of my sheep paddocks.
Link to "Goathive".
Again, I used the general idea from playscapes for their Playhive, but made a few adaptations. All the timber was salvaged from builders skips and I used about 8kg of nails.
Note I have edited with cost, nails cost $28 NZ for 5kg, all the wood was free but if buying you would need approx. 400m of 4x2. There are always recycled materials available in skips (dumpsters) if you are willing to be a scavenger
MARKING OUT
For marking out I used a nail and string (or wire) some cheap paint, a large protractor and a length of wood.
The design is going to be three interlocking 6 foot diameter circles (sort of shamrock shape)
Started off drawing one 6ft circle, which I then divided into 3 equal parts, these were then used as centres to draw the 3 interlocking circles. (I will put up a sketch when I get use of a scanner)
The tools during construction were a hammer and saw (I used a chop saw mainly)
LAYING OUT
I laid out the bottom layer of blocks (12 to each circle)
These are 12 inches (30cm) long pieces of 4x2
The middle ones are in there just for positioning and will be removed once I start building.
Basically they are 30degrees apart around each circle, although there is a bit of "by eye" adjustment
THE FIRST FEW LAYERS
As you can see I have left 3 gaps as entries, there are small 4x4 blocks to build up the jamb.
All the blocks are 12 inches until I get to the top of the entries.
The build site btw is about 400m from the nearest electrical socket so all the pieces are cut up by the house and wheelbarrowed down.
DOOR JAMBS
I cut 3 longer pieces of 8x2 as door top lintels (approx 1m long but "to fit" as required) This ensured a nice solid foundation for the higher layers.
TAPERING IN
After about 15 layers I started tapering in by using smaller blocks
Firstly a couple of layers of 11 inch, then 10 inch ,9,8,7 etc
Basically when you are able to adequately span the gap with a smaller block you reduce size.
Now in the original instructions there are a bunch of templates you can use for this, but it is very time consuming and easier to do by eye.
I did have to "wing it" a bit on the "indents" where the circles meet as each piece in there becomes longer or differently shaped
ROOF
You can carry on building up and into a point if you wish
I decided to put a roof on
I used 6x2s as a triangular frame from above each door and a second smaller triangle on top between each "indent"
I then panelled out with decking timber
The curved gaps at the edges are intentional, (and easier!)
FROM INSIDE
People have said "is it draughty?"
Well the shape breaks up the wind, so it is quite cosy but airy
... and sheep smell so it keeps it fresh in there.
AND COMPLETED
What's this Dad?
Suggested materials:
  • 4x2,6x2,8x2   (skip rescues)
  • 8kg 75mm nails   (Bunnings)
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