Faux Window Deceptively Makes the Foyer Bigger
We begin with choosing a 12" X 12" Template that would be used for stenciling. So it has already had the pattern cut out of it where your Etching Cream will go through it onto each of the 9 mirror squares that you'll be using to make the window panes. You lay the stencil on top of the mirror square, tape it (using regular masking tape) to the counter or the mirror square to be sure it does not move. You then use a paint brush and spread lots of the Armour Etching cream on all the empty spaces on the template. After about 5-10 minutes, the etching is complete. You can use a spatula and scrape the etching cream off as best you can and put it back into the bottle. You won't be able to get it all because it will have dried on. (But the etching cream is reuseable. Just shake the bottle to mix the old with the new.) You now remove the template and wash it off thoroughly with water, dry it and set it aside. Now you wash all the remaining etching cream off of the mirror square, and dry it and set it aside. You have your designed window pane.
To make the window pane safe to handle and not dangerous for outsiders to touch, I put some white electrical tape around all four sides of each piece of the mirror.
When completed, I laid all 9 mirror tiles out in the pattern on the floor that I would put them up on the wall in.
Then I proceeded to put the cross-hatching up on the wall out of a textured border of wallpaper. The wallpaper had several different textures on it, so I used different ones for different parts of the faux window.
The next part was to make the border around the entire window frame. It needed to be much thicker than the pieces in between the panes. I mitered the corners like I learned how to do in my wallpaper course.
Then I started putting the window panes up in their spots. I used a special adhesive that holds glass and mirrors to construction projects and taped it using the painters blue tape to make sure it held in place before I placed the the other tiles. I didn't want anything slipping off the wall. I let it dry for 2 days before I took the tape off and made sure it was secure.
HOLD ON PEOPLE!!!! A two dimensional picture just does not do justice to WHY I felt I needed to put the tacks in. I wish you could all see it in person. The frame was just SO flat! It really needed something to give it some interest and texture. Hence the tacks. I debated what color they should be. A friend of mine who decorated for "Better Homes and Gardens" told me that every room should have something black in it. I decided this would be my black. I didn't want gold, because I already had gold on my table. I didn't want silver because the mirrors were silver. I didn't want white because then the tacks would disappear. I WANTED them to stand out. If you could only see it in three dimensions, I think you would all like it better. Please don't judge me. You haven't seen it in person. I've found everyone's criticism to be very hurtful and uninformed. Please be careful with your comments. You may think you are being helpful, but who says that your opinion is the correct one? ***Lastly, I put upholstery tacks spaced evenly around the frame to make it appear as if the frame was extra textured. It got really tricky to do in between the panes. I had to use a very small hammer so that I didn't accidentally hit one of the mirror panes and break everything and have to start all over again on that particular section. I put glue under each tack before I hammered them into the sheetrock. Some went in easier than others. Can't say what was behind the sheetrock, but the tacks are there to stay. Finally all the "window panes" were in place and the faux window was finished. I could then place all of the other decorations that went in the foyer back into place.
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