HOW to Add a Window Into a Door and WHY You Should Do It!
It's a dreary walk up the narrow stairs staring at a plain metal door.
I brushed a copper red tone over the manufacturer's standard white.
That was better.
I added intriguing art from my studio on the walls.
But a stairwell is NOT a lingering space.
Something still was missing.
I wanted to see light at the end of the tunnel.
I had seen expensive gorgeous doors with frosted or stained glass insets.
Take the door off hinges.
Position the window where you want it to go.
Measure to confirm distances.
I chose to go even top to side = peak-a-boo height for 5'10".
Trace the window exactly.
Drill the CORNERS.
Cut Carefully! One side at a time.
Since this is a metal door, sparks FLY!
I admit I was too timid to do this myself, so I offered to take the pictures.
Flip it to the BACK SIDE.
As the photographer/observer, I came up with the ingenious idea of cutting the backside one-half inch NARROWER than the front, all around, so that the window had some support for frame.
"But then the two sides would be different!"
Draw cut lines. Cut metal on back.
Trim the foam that is between the metal using a kitchen knife.
Pop it all out!
Re-install door in place and grin.
Measure distance you need to fill cut-out.
Window measure one inch thick. Door is two inches.
Need two one-half inch frames top and bottom.
I made these from 1/2 inch x 3/4 inch pine.
I wanted the step down effect from the inside, which is why I wanted it 1/4 inch shorter than the original window frame.
Hand-cut on miter box with backsaw.
Glue new frames to window frame on BOTH sides.
For a professional look, fill corners with Plastic Wood or wood filler.
Sand for smooth finish.
Since I wanted the new to blend into old, I made sure to round edges with the sander too.
Oak was too yellow to match old finish.
So I blended old mahogany I had laying around.
I let it all dry overnight.
Then carefully hammer window frame in place (cushion with hubby's cotton jacket). Tight fit -- perfect!
After window in place, measure and cut trim moulding to fit.
I used one inch oak.
I used construction adhesive to adhere metal to wood.
Tape until dry
Then stain as before.
For the back side of the door, we overlapped the metal edge with the one-inch oak trim.
This is the pretty treat you get now when you reach the top of the stairs.
I posted about a spotlight I re-invented to set off this door from the hall.
It was quite important that it sparkle most when you reach the top...
and it does.
It all came together to look as though it was always meant to be.
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