Fertilizing: Don't add fertilizer to the planting hole or to the ground around a newly planted peach tree. As an example of a peach-fertilizing regimen, Ohio State University Extension recommends the following: One week after planting and again about seven weeks after planting, scatter 8 ounces of 10-10-10 fertilizer in a circle around the tree beginning at the drip line, or outermost edge of the canopy, and extending to about 8 inches from the trunk. In years 2 and 3, sprinkle 12 ounces of 10-10-10 around the tree in early spring and again in late spring. For mature trees, ages 4 and up, increase the amount of 10-10-10 fertilizer to 16 ounces in early spring and again in late spring. Always keep fertilizer at least 8 inches away from the base of the tree and water it in thoroughly following application.
Watering: Immediately following planting, thoroughly soak the soil around the tree; thereafter, apply about an inch of water per week during the tree's first growing season. Established peach trees need around 30 inches of water per year, or about an inch every 10 days from natural precipitation, irrigation or a combination of the two. Use a soaker hose and water deeply when you water – to a depth of about 1 1/2 to 2 feet.
Weeding and Mulching: Prior to planting, remove all grass and weeds from the planting site and keep the ground clear of competing plants under the tree's canopy by hand pulling or lightly hoeing, rather than tilling. Help keep the planting site free of weeds by spreading a 4- or 5-inch layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded bark, under the tree from the drip line to a few inches from the trunk. Mulch also benefits the tree by retarding water evaporation and adding nutrients to the soil as it rots. Remove the old mulch and apply a fresh layer every spring.
Pruning: Prune the newly planted whip, or young tree with no side branches, down to 2 to 2 1/2 feet above the ground. The following year before bud break in late winter or early spring, prune the dormant tree for a V-shaped or open center by removing the central leader and all other branches, except for four lateral branches spaced evenly around the tree at about knee height from the ground. For an established tree, use heading cuts, or clean, diagonal cuts down to a just above a bud, to prune off about 50 percent of the previous year's fruiting wood while the tree is dormant in late winter or early spring. This encourages new growth and fruit production going forward and improves air circulation and sun exposure. Later during spring, when the peaches have reached about the size of a penny, thin them to 6 inches apart to promote larger fruits and to reduce the weight the branches will eventually have to support. Throughout the life of the tree, prune to maintain a convenient size so you can easily harvest and provide care, and continue to remove suckers or water sprouts arising from the roots and dead, damaged, diseased, crossing or vertical branches down to their points of origin.
Congratulations! Depends on where you live and what pests you may have. In my area, not much is needed other than adequate watering, proper pruning and fertilizing. See if this helps! Has it produced fruit yet?