Refinishing 100 Year Old Floors Using ONLY Oil

5 Materials
6 Hours

You read that right! No stain, no polyurethane, just plain ole oil!

When we started our laundry room renovation, I knew I wanted to save the floors. This used to be the front porch, and over 150+ years, it's taken a beating and had some pretty bad stains and gaps. I knew that with a good sanding a great finish, they could look beautiful so we opted to save them and ignore everyone who told us not to!

Taking a look at the before, you can see all the paint spills and stains, and how most of the finish had been worn off from foot traffic and never being refinished.

Here is a better look at how bad these floors really were. There were a few gaps around the perimeter of the floor, but I decided to deal with this since trim would cover most of those up, and I would be crazy to cover these beauties up!

We rented a drum sander and edge sander combo kit for the weekend which cost us about $120 including the sanding pads. We picked up 20, 36 and 80 grit sanding pads for both machines.

Step One:

Our first step was to clear everything from the room and start with the edge sander. We started with a 20 grit sandpaper and sanded the entire perimeter or the room. Keep this baby moving, or you will have gouge marks. Don't worry if you don't get everything sanded around the edge in the first sweep. Just keep going around the perimeter until all of the finish has been removed!

Do not move onto the next grit of sandpaper until you have used the 20 grit on both the drum sander AND the edge sander!

This is what our floor looked like after we had finished sanding the entire perimeter with the edge sander. See those black stains there? Cat pee. One of the hardest things to remove from wood floors. We actually ended up sanding even more after this photo and almost COMPLETELY removed the cat pee from the wood.

Step Two:

Once you've used your 20 grit sandpaper on the edger, use a 20 grit sandpaper in the drum sander and sand the entire center of the room that has not been sanded with your edge sander. DO NOT stop moving with this machine, it will literally eat your floor leaving massive gouge marks. It is easy to move the machine up and down to stop if you need to so don't be intimidated. Just don't stop moving while the sandpaper is touching the floor, and make sure to move with the direction of the wood.

Once you've finished sanding your room with the drum sander, go back to your edge sander and use your 36 grit. Keep alternating between the machines and grits, until you've reached your highest grit and your floor feels smooth to the touch! The entire sanding process probably took us about 4.5 hours for this one room.

Step Three:

Before you use your oil, make sure you floors are completely vacuumed and cleaned off so you are not sealing in any dirt or dust.

I picked up a can of Watco Pure Tung Oil and did much research on how to use this. There's not very many people who have sealed wood floors with this so we were taking a chance!

We used gloves and clean cotton cloths to apply this oil over the entire surface of the wood. In my blog post I go into detail explaining the differences between oil and stain/polyurethane. A big difference is it soaks into the wood actually hardening it instead of sitting on top of the wood as poly and stain would.

You can see the difference in the above picture between the part of the floor that had one coat of oil just applied, and part of the floor that has been sanded and is unfinished.

You can immediately walk on the oil with clean cotton socks! As you can see here, we had half of the floor oiled. The oil will also soak into the floor within a days time and after about 30 days will lighten to almost the color of the unfinished floor, which is really what I wanted to enhance!

The next day, our floors looked like this. This was with one coat of tung oil. I applied a second coat the next day using the same technique, and just after an hour or two, used a clean cotton cloth to wipe off any extra oil left on the surface!

This photo was taken after two coats of tung oil! Do you see how it really made the wood tones rich, yet there is absolutely NO stain on these floors!

Probably the best part of using oil, you can touch up spots as you want! Unlike polyurethane, where you have to strip the entire finish to touch up, you can touch up any spots that need it in less than a minute!

I linked all the products used on my blog as well as a few extra process photos. Head here to see them!

Suggested materials:

  • Tung Oil
  • Cotton Cloth
  • Gloves
See all materials

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Hayden Scharrer

Want more details about this and other DIY projects? Check out my blog post!


Have a question about this project?

3 of 35 questions
  • Besie Harvey
    on Jul 25, 2019

    What is Tung Oil? Will linseed oil work as well?

  • Suze
    on Jul 25, 2019

    I absolutly love this! Especially since I can use the room (kitchen) almost immediately. May even try it on stairs. My question though, I have little staples still in my floor from the super duper job someone did in laying subfloor. Any tips for using your edger and drum sander on that? thanks.

    • Sto9987562
      on Aug 13, 2019

      But they will still tear up the sand paper! As you go deeper into the floor when you sand you’ll be hitting those old staple pieces. Purchase additional sandpaper!

      If you can push them further into the floor that may work. But you also run the risk of them working their way up and then stepping on them!

  • Vicki Walker
    on Jul 26, 2019

    can we use tung oil over two coats of minwax stain?

    will it seal or soak in through the stain?

    Its a dining room table

    • Hayden Scharrer
      on Jul 29, 2019

      I would not as you want to be careful not to mix water based with oiled based. They do make a tinted tung oil as well as a tinted danish oil if you would like color as well, without the need for stain.

Join the conversation

2 of 84 comments
  • Buttermilk
    on Jul 28, 2019

    Done this many of times....but will have to put some kind of water repellent sealer on... Because it will show the dirt if you don't. If you want another option, more of the natural do not have to put this on. We Live in a 1865 house with every room having OLD Hardwood Floors in each room. Loved Pratt & Lamert but stopped making the kind we wanted.... We have used the poly too...Will scratch at some point...All you have to do is fill it in....nope does not work that way...Have to sand it all off....Have to get the paint even. Well this sanding is too much work! Thought about watering down paint colors and use them as a stain? Nope-just might get tried of the color and have to Sand all over again....Like they did here. NOW we are using Minwax Ultimate Floor Finish in the Satin...only can get it thru Sherwin Williams they own Miniwax they will have to special order it-of the Matte & Satin- No one else can special order it, So i have saved you all the work! LOL Kind of expensive for my budget @ $110.49 a gallon on their website-at the time i bought it it was $99.00 a gallon, I thought that was alot! *Wait until they have a sale....when they order it they will give you the sale price. Here is the link to their website. i did not order it thru the website at the time... I called Sherwin Williams. Hope this Helps? Follow the directions above on how to do hardwood floors...Good Luck....i am sure they will be beautiful.

  • Sue
    on Jul 28, 2019

    I need to do my steps. The rest of my floors are a rich dark brown. Can I achieve that color with the tongue oil by applying several coats? I do like the idea of being able to walk on the floor right away.

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