Dye Wood With Teak Oil Professional Finish

The first thing the furniture must be well sanded and free of dust for it is necessary to pass a HUMID WIPE THROUGHOUT THE SURFACE, why wet? because it will drag any possible rest, being wet it stays stuck to the cloth, much more than with a dry cloth. Here I leave an image of the table as we did for a customer, first raw:

Use FOAM BRUSH OR FOAM ROLLER, I love foam brushes but lately they have disappeared from any DIY center, so a foam roller can be the safest alternative why? Because the foam absorbs the oil and thus when painting the surface you get that the amount you distribute is much more uniform than with a hair brush.

 Do not squeeze the brush or roller in the wood, it’s about CARESS THE WOOD, why? because this way you guarantee that the amount of oil that you leave on the surface is as homogeneous as possible.

 Apply the oil ALWAYS ALONG THE WOOD GRAIN, this is so with any dye or varnish that you use with wood.

As soon as you have applied the oil, before it absorbs PASS A WRAP TO COLLECT EXCESS, this step is key, when you give the oil you see everything uniform, but then if you have left more quantity in one area a STAIN will come out, both the brush of foam, not to tighten when painting and the cloth are to ensure that the amount of oil is as homogeneous as possible.

If you need the color to be darker, wait for the first layer to dry and repeat the operation as many times as you want, but always passing the cloth after each brush.

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If you follow these simple indications the result will be spectacular, whether it’s pinewood (which they say does not dye well) or oak or the wood you want.

We gave a couple of layers of colorless wax once dry to protect it even more from possible stains.

What do you think? Dare to make on your own?