Wall thermostat?

M,. Check with an electrician. Go on the web to Home Advisor,com, and find an electrician. It might cost a bit, but if your thermostat isn't working properly, you'll be wasting money. This is the best alternative. Aloha!

Hi M,

Is the unit you bought sized for your cottage? That would be the first thing I'd look at. I used to have a wall unit in my office but it was just sized for that room. It really didn't affect the rest of the house. Also where is the thermostat? If your unit isn't sized for the whole cottage and your thermostat is close to the unit, it won't call for heat in other rooms so they won't get warm.

Is the wire you're asking about a C wire or an A C wire? I"m going to assume that it's a C wire. Here's information on a C wire: https://smartthermostatguide.com/thermostat-c-wire-explained/

If you're really stuck and the unit is not working properly, you could try the store where you bought it or the manufacturer for help. If they can't help, I'd find a local professional who can figure out the problem for you. Wishing you the best.

I agree. Usually a wall furnace is it good for one room.

As an electrician and homeowner and former plumber's helper too, I can advise you a book.

Here goes:

1. Your Real Problem is not a thermostat problem. It is an issue, but New thermostats cost $30 @ Lowes. No big whoop. The Bigger issue is instead: You only got this one (very old probably too) thermostat and expect that to do 100% the Job rather than say: 44% of the job, at Best?

Never expect to get 100% from anything old. Never. So, you need to Zone your Home for Efficiency with 2 Thermostats, One Upstairs where heat goes, one downstairs plus need to consider the Alternative Options [see 2] for Fuel Efficiency and Enjoyable Daily Life.

2. Far as Considering Alternative Heating options you may want to avoid electrical heat alternatives and just get a Gel Fuel Fireplace: 6000 BTU for the Family Room or placed in a Centralized Room so that these 6000 BTU are not heating Outside by going out the window, but staying inside the radius.

Remember: 'a downstairs never technically gets cooler, instead the upstairs got warmer' is true.

Has nothing to do with heat actually able to Rise by Itself though, has to do with atomic density that is to say: Air when contracted and cool to an extent airs get alot more dense, density means: 'heavier in the decreased space they take when they are cool'. This causes a Volume Differential and that causes the Contracted Airs to Sink and that Sink causes a downward push, and that downward push results Displacement of the Less Dense and that causes a Push of the Hotter Airs up, by sheer weight dynamics of the cool as greater weight dynamics than the hot.

Applies to everything, not just air is my gyst.

For insights pour half of a cup of hot coffee on top of half cup of iced coffee.

The colder coffee stays at the bottom until you mix it with a blender.

End result is luke warm blahhh.

3. Also, as I presume you are dealing with an in-Kitchen Thermostat too, if things weren't bad enough, you can maybe rather than replace it at this instant:

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A. Reset it in the Furnace, tis a New Season. Turn off the furnace, set your thermostat to 72°, Turn the furnace back on. Hit the red reset button.

B. Also you may want to take up a Hobby of Baking: Chicken, Pork, Cookies, Brownies, Ribs, and turn down the thermostat, Whatever if takes on the Recipe °, Add 30 to 50° with the Oven Door Slightly Cracked or Open, you'd be suprised at how breifly you need to do. When done, Open the Oven Door to Cool the Oven. Only time you keep the oven door shut is with Cakes and Breads that might Fall or Flop with the slightest Draft.

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Because the most likely culprit of your problem is? the Mercury in the thermostat needs to place on balance by a technically adept person who rebuilds them.

Rebuild a Thermostat? Exactly, for $60 you can get 2, so why rebuild?

4. When you do replace the Thermostat, as I advise: Get 2. Call a Plumber or HVAC Pro, we Electricians hate being put in a position we were called for the wrong job. We as homeowners know how, but in homes not our own, our insurances are limited: events especially of anything was messed up before we got there is beyond our ability to legally fix or insure. Plumber or HVAC Pro are Insured for everything Plumbing or HVAC.

5. If you don't bake alot, get them to Put the Brand New Thermostat #1 in the Room with the New Alternate Heat Source I advise you to get before December.

6. Far as SmartThermostart (Nest) vs. Zoned Programmable (Honeywell) you Gotta Zone to have a Home.

Zone is done with Pro Installation with 2 Honeywell on the same Thermostatic Lead:

https://m.lowes.com/pd/Honeywell-5-2-Day-Programmable-Thermostat/

One Upstairs, One Downstairs.

Because 1 Nest thermostat is not capable of Zoning, Those are fine only in a Ranch Home or any: Efficiency, Garage, Condo, Hotel or Apartment.

7. Setting up the Programmable Zone Downstairs: Off or at 60° after 10pm or Bedtime. All Others set at Comfort: 70 to 72° because heat gets pushed up, yes, even from a 50° basement if the first floor ever gets beneath 48°, the 50° airs will push up by the 48°.

8. Upstairs is up to you at bedtime, some people are like I, I prefer covers and a cool face, but, I advise to Start with:

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A. 70° at Wake. 58° at Leave.

B 72° at half hour before Return.

C. 68° to 70° at Weekends and Wear a Sweater

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And you customize it as you need.

This setup of 2 Zones Gives No Problems Atall with those Honeywell Programmable Thermostat.

You will not be sorry. Or even notice any Utility difference really.

Same Baking Rules Apply [see 3.B] But also if you got oil or propane heat as I presume you do: Fill the Tanks only when they are Really Low. Prepay if you can.

Also lastly

9. It is that time of year again: when you Set your Clocks, you gotta Set the Water Heater Max and Min Appropriately in the Furnace. Oh Joy! Your plumber upon arrival can do. If they don't...

A. Set your Thermostats to 72° and Turn off the Emergency Switch that is on the Furnace.

B. You want Only 20°F difference between the Minimum and Maximum.

C. 130° Maximum in the Winter, 80° Maximum in the Late Spring. Anything above that can damage the Hoses in your washing machine, showerhead, pressure washers, and the sink sprayer.

D. You need to set both while the furnace is off.

E. After both are set you can turn on the furnace again, and hit the red reset button.

Hello M, the c wire ( common wire) is a wire that runs from you furnace to you thermostat. I hope this link helps you out, it should be pretty straight forward for just a furnace and no A/C

https://smartthermostatguide.com/what-if-i-dont-have-a-c-wire/#:~:text=The%20C%2DWire%2C%20or%20%E2%80%9C,your%20furnace%20to%20your%20thermostat.