How do I make a back yard water fall?


I would like to make a back yard water fall . what do I do ?

  4 answers
  • Fiddledd224 Fiddledd224 on Dec 22, 2018

    Angela...we need more info from you since there are so many ways to help. A photo would be VERY helpful.

  • Dwp7470b Dwp7470b on Dec 23, 2018

    Angela, this relies on how large you want this waterfall. Basically the most important part of a Waterfall is the Pond that the water falls into. If your ordinances do not forbid that pond you yet must ask: Do you have pets or Children? If so you are then dealing with more of a Park Fountain Type Atmosphere where: Most of the Water Contains for Recirculation by a Solar Pump to secure that it is A Very Shallow Pond, Even if you do implement by Illusion that it is indeed a Waterfall Appearance to an Outcome (by using hidden Sponges to line the rocky bed rather than go directly to a tank from a Pond)

    Actually making one is simple as either way you got the Pipes that lead out of the Solar Circulation Pump at the Top to create the Waterfall, and then a Drain to a Tank Underground attaches to the circulation pump Input.

    Of course having different Capacities of the Tank is what can limit or delimit the Size of that Pond, as the actual

    A. Tank purpose is to bury what would be a Pond had the Tank:System ratio not been 'Tank Dominant'.

    B. Stature of the Waterfall moreso controls by:

    1. Circulation needs not be of the Entire Tank every Minute but can be.

    2. Tank does not need to be larger capacity than the pond, but can be.

    And those are discretions reliant on what the Client and Homeowner actually want.

    The innards are quite Basic...

    You can actually make the innards of this with

    A.1 10 quart sized containers with 9 Pint sized or

    A.2 one 5 gallon bucket or Fuel Container

    B. 1 Solar Pump: 5 Gallons per minute maximum but 3 Gallons per Minute Minimum.

    To structure the Form of the Tank Exterior...

    You need:

    C. Some Glue to interconnect those quart sized reusable Containers to the Pint Containers that you may also cut with a hole saw but really do not need to Cut them as these are a mere mold to shape thd innards of the Tank.

    D. Newspapers which use to enable you to remove those Containers from Cement you Pour beneath and Around these and a Hack Saw to make the Cans into pipes.

    E. A Decent Drain with some PVC that will lead to these innards

    F. The hose that leads in to the Circulation Pump


    To make that Tank...

    you need Maximally:

    G. 160 lbs (in 2 bags) of Cement per each 20 gallons of water you intend to contain

    H. Patience before creating your pond.

    Once you have a Tank...

    Once you have that Tank with 10 Stomachs, (although an advanced Design without a Circulating Pump is like a Piston which is using Weights to Pressurize the Water and Springs to turn the Piston to an angle that is reliant on how much weight is Contained in the Piston, it is a very hard DIY to explain the Industrial Mechanics, etc) and a Pump, the Rest is up to you because:

    1. Pond Size relies not atall on how much water the Tank

    Holds nor the Water that Pump Circulates.

    2. Stagnancy arise by a Pond too Large for the GPM of a

    Pump and those issues avoid in the Pond by moving

    the Water in that Pond at Least 5× Daily.

    Due to 1&2 as Facts this arises Formulae for actual Pond and Cycles per day=CPD as close to:

    (Gallons in Pond/60)×(1/GPM)×(1/23.92)=CPD

    This leads to:

    (Tank Gallons+Pond Gallons)÷260=Minimum GPM you

    need TO cycle the pond 5 times daily.

    That onsets:

    Tank Gallons=Pond Gallons÷25

    That Basically onsets a General Rule (or Petty Dictator):

    To avoid stagnancy of the water the Total Gallons in

    that System should never exceed 260 times the Gallons

    Of GPM for the Pump. (Many say: 250)

    Thus, unless you intend a 750 Gallon Pond with a 30 gallon Tank you need only a 3GPM Pump.

    If you go above that up to 1300 Gallons you need a 5GPM Pump.

    Do Please Note...

    Do Note: With Live Fish, Suction of the Pump is usually placed behind a Small Cave and a Waterproofed Screen prevents fish from entering the System. Pump should not at Any Time ever Overpower the Strength of any Fish you place in the Pond, (otherwise they get sucked onto the screen, and can swell, like Edema, and die of Heart Congestion from lack of motion or exercise if say: you were on a vacation when this happened) thus: Larger GPM merits Larger more Mature Fish.

    For many kinds of fish You will also need a Solar Heater in the Tank unless you live in the Tropics.

    Few want Septicemia or dead fish or fish eggs cycling through the system is why use of a Screen or Mesh (as Cheesecloth) is Recommended even if you do not intend fish. Also if you do not have fish you need to Bleach the System quite regularly. (I'd say Monthly)

    This is not only to protect any Fish: Small or Large this is also to Protect you, pets, children and wildlife from the diseases like: Septicemia, Lupus, Rabies and Pneumonia (damned lengthy list: Swimmers Ear, Strep Throat) that can cause or Spread by any Feces or Disease in the System.

    Thus if there are not live fish treat it like a Septic Tank or Garbage Disposer.

    Thus if there are live fish treat it like a fish tank.

    Upon Mechanics verified as Working...

    After the Mechanics of it all are Completed and in Check per Working Order, then comes lastly an application of Decoration to Hide and Protect the Mechanisms from the Weather and Beasts.

    This is usually best by Mortar, with or without Stones or Bricks, as mortar is the Medium of choice rather than Topping Cement which often Crumbles in so Brief of a Time you may as well Recommend Bread Doughs as a Suitable Alternative to Topping Cement.

    A Word of Caution...

    If you do not know those formulae, or moreso neglect to use them you will encounter difficulties at some later stage due to 4 facts:

    A. Overflow from the tank becomes a Pond, or Puddle of

    Mud whether you plan a Pond, Puddle, Mud or not.

    B. The best defense against mud is Cement or Mortar.

    C. GPM of the Pump IN equal to GPM Out does not atall

    Drain a Tank, nor by 1 Pump Store Extra Rainfall in the

    Pump when that exceeds the Tank or Pond. Instead a

    Fall Distance and Pipe to the Tank will more Empty a

    Tank than a Pump ever will or Can by Evaporation


    D. Misguided Persons usually buy a Sump Pump or Wet

    and Dry Vac to then Makeshift a Waterfall. These then

    Encounter Extreme Utilities Bills that eliminate only by

    purchase of

    1. a Solar Circulation Pump.

    2. Solar Panels to power an Outdoor Outlet, which

    reliant on the DOE Regulations, you encounter more

    Hassles to extents: 2. Is Pointless in On The Grid

    Regions to do for Small Applications rather than 1.

    In Conclusion...

    By understanding these you can construct simple items as a Bird Bath or complex devices as a Crocodile feeder for a Zoo/Seaquarium.

    If it involves moving liquids, these precepts do the trick.

    Thus it is Easier than most think it is, as long as you are

    A. Attentive, patient and directed (or know the formulae).

    B. Not expecting a Michelangelo at any rate less than Michelangelo's Price [Trust me, Misers do and Complain, then wonder why they are MISER-Able].

    C. Comprehensive of the ever-applicable fact to any job

    you are always best to avoid Makeshifts and do it

    Right with the Best Tool for the Job

    which is in this circumstance: A Solar Circulation Pump and a Tank of a Capacity suitable for your needs.

    D. Mindful of Safety.

    I am sure this helps!