Hi Abel. Siding can be done easily with 4x8 sheets of Hardi-board or other weather-worthy sheets, or you can use the old shiplap method. Shiplap starts at the bottom and works its way up overlapping the a bit of the top of the last board as you move up the wall. Happy DIY'ing!
Think about keeping water and wind (which can force the water into the wall) out of the wall cavity. Typically there is Oriented Strand Board (rated for this application) nailed to clean and dry studs, then sheet foam insulation (rated for this application) and then the siding is installed from top to bottom with the flashings put in between. If you live in earthquake or high wind territory, you'll need to use a rated plywood sheathing, not OSB.
I would emphatically rip off the old siding and expose the stud cavities so I could additionally anchor down the sill plate or soul plate to the foundation for hurricanes/tornadoes/earthquakes and then put blocking between the studs. Globally, we have a phenomenal increase in "bad weather" and earthquakes.
Strongtie.com is the nation's largest source of remedial products and data on the Building Code-compliant hardware that architects, engineers and building inspectors all use. They also have "home owners" tabs on their site.
Taking off the old siding, and putting insulation either in the stud cavities or on top the sheathing are givens and the costs of reinforcing the structure are mostly your time and the price difference in the plywood. This is minor compared to the overall project costs.
Installation will be best done with pneumatic nail guns, as it will take longer with hammers. Start at the top, make sure the flashings are counter flashed at the outside edges and work your way down.
We are in the process of converting our garage into a bedroom and struggling with the exterior. We can’t find matching brick. We have found some very close in color...
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Abel...If you want to clean ... we use pressure washer.
Hi Abel. Siding can be done easily with 4x8 sheets of Hardi-board or other weather-worthy sheets, or you can use the old shiplap method. Shiplap starts at the bottom and works its way up overlapping the a bit of the top of the last board as you move up the wall. Happy DIY'ing!
Think about keeping water and wind (which can force the water into the wall) out of the wall cavity. Typically there is Oriented Strand Board (rated for this application) nailed to clean and dry studs, then sheet foam insulation (rated for this application) and then the siding is installed from top to bottom with the flashings put in between. If you live in earthquake or high wind territory, you'll need to use a rated plywood sheathing, not OSB.
I would emphatically rip off the old siding and expose the stud cavities so I could additionally anchor down the sill plate or soul plate to the foundation for hurricanes/tornadoes/earthquakes and then put blocking between the studs. Globally, we have a phenomenal increase in "bad weather" and earthquakes.
Strongtie.com is the nation's largest source of remedial products and data on the Building Code-compliant hardware that architects, engineers and building inspectors all use. They also have "home owners" tabs on their site.
Taking off the old siding, and putting insulation either in the stud cavities or on top the sheathing are givens and the costs of reinforcing the structure are mostly your time and the price difference in the plywood. This is minor compared to the overall project costs.
Installation will be best done with pneumatic nail guns, as it will take longer with hammers. Start at the top, make sure the flashings are counter flashed at the outside edges and work your way down.