First, we started with the towel bar piece. We measured out the size wood piece we wanted, sanded and stained it. Then we assembled all of the plumbers pipe pieces. We used two 1/2" flanges, two 5" nipples, two 1/2" elbows, and one 18" pipe. Screw it to the board and this part is done!
DIY Rustic and Industrial Cabinet With Plumbers Pipe Towel Bar
My husband and I have always worked great together ❤ I think we compliment each other a lot. He always plans every project out down to the exact screw length. He always thinks it's going to be a hard job and that he won't be able to make it happen. I on the other hand jump right in! No planning necessary! I got this! And I'm certainly my hubby's cheerleader, pumping up his confidence, ensuring him that he can, in fact, make it happen!
So it was no surprise that we were able to make this project turn out to be one of our best in my opinion.
We've always kept a scrap wood pile out back to get weathered and perfect. When I decided I wanted a cabinet in the bathroom, we went hunting for the perfect pieces of wood. I LOVE cedar! The smell, the look, the softness, easily one of my favorites to work with! That's what we used for most of this project.
The cabinet doesn't have a back, and it is a separate piece from the towel bar. It would be easy enough to add a back if you wanted, we just don't have a lot of space to work with, and even that one inch would've jutted the cabinet out too far for my liking.
Here's how we did this awesome industrial cabinet and towel bar.....
Now, gather all your wood for the cabinet and cut to the desired length.
We made the cabinet frame 24" wide by 20" high. The wood is 1/2" thick so the middle shelf is 23" wide. Sand and stain all pieces. To prevent the wood from possibly splitting, we first drilled out the holes. Then screw the frame together...one side piece to the top, top to the other side piece, bottom to both sides.
Now it's time for the cabinet door. We used pieces of our old fence that we ripped down not long ago. Since we were using two boards, we needed to attach them together somehow. So we cut (same height of the two fence boards when stacked ontop of each other) and stained two pieces of paint stirrers. We were able to make them match the fence boards perfectly! Drill out the holes first, and then screw them to the fence boards to keep them held together.
We decided to put the water spigot on now while both sides of the door was still easily accessible. Then attach the hinges to the bottom of the cabinet door, then to the bottom of the frame
Now that you have a working cabinet door, you know exactly where the shelf needs to be. Have someone hold the shelf piece just above the door (you want there to be enough room so the door doesn't rub against the shelf, but you don't want a large gap) while you mark it. Drill out your holes, then screw the shelf in place.
Installing the jack chain so the door can only lower so much. Measure out how much chain you want. This depends on how far down you want to allow your door to fall. Cut two pieces of chain accordingly. Place a screw, sticking halfway out, in the middle on the side piece right below the shelf. Put the end link around the screw, and tighten it around it so the chain doesn't fall past the head of the screw. To make it eaiser if you don't have a lot of room inside the cabinet, you can attach the chain to the screw before screwing it to the wood. Repeat on the other side. Now place a screw, again sticking halfway out, on the upper inside corner of the door. Attach the the other end of the chain just as before making sure there is no slack when the door is lowered to it's desired height. Repeat on the other side.
Last step! We used a magnetic enclosure. Super easy to install and work great. Under the shelf, install the magnetic closure. Install the metal plate on the inside of the door, assuring they line up.
Isn't it fun to DIY? Now go hang your beautiful project proudly!
If you made this cabinet or something like it, let me know in the comments how you did it! 😉
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