We live in an area with a lot of pear orchards. They prune the trees in late winter, not too long before the buds start pushing, because they want maximum peat production. If you just have one or a few in your yard that are overgrown, you can prune out dead wood and shape them most any time. Just know if you cut them back too much you might have limited pear production this year.
The best time to prune is in the months ending with an R. September, October, November, December. By trimming during these months you will not have to worry about cutting off fruit buds.
I have meet many people that wait until spring to trim their fruit trees and then complain about not having any fruit.
You have probably heard that it is best to wait until the leaves fall off so you can see the structure of the tree clearly.
It does help, but isn't totally necessary. It helps on very thick trees to be able to locate crossover branches for removal, etc.
Pruning a pear tree begins in late winter before the buds begin to swell. Earlier pruning may encourage excessive vegetative growth and suckering in spring and summer. It also increases the chances of winter injury to the pruning sites. Limit spring and summer pruning to light thinning, and try to avoid trimming pear trees after midsummer. Pear tree pruning also begins at planting time. Cut back young, unbranched trees 33 to 36 inches above the ground to encourage good branching. If your new tree has plenty of branches, remove those that are less than 18 inches from the ground and those with crotches of less than 60 degrees.As a young pear tree grows, the main stem of the plant should always be taller than the surrounding branches. Pear tree branches naturally grow upright, but the branches spread as it begins to bear fruit. The weight of the fruit pulls the branch down into a more horizontal position. You can help this process by pulling the branch down and tying it to a stake in the ground with twine. Pad the twine that encircles the branch to avoid damage. If you can’t achieve an angle of at least 60 degrees between the branch and the trunk of the tree, then remove the branch. Pruning and training to improve the spread of the branches increases the amount of sunlight that reaches the center of the tree. Your tree will produce fruit sooner and in greater quantities as a result. Keeping the canopy of the tree open makes it easier for sprays to reach every part of the tree. It also allows good air circulation around the branches, and this helps prevent diseases. Pruning wounds in older trees provide an entry point for fire blight, which is a devastating disease that can kill a tree. Limit pruning of mature trees in areas where fire blight is a problem. Use as few cuts as possible to remove damage and thin the canopy. Remove suckers that grow from the base of the tree or in the crotches as they appear.
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We live in an area with a lot of pear orchards. They prune the trees in late winter, not too long before the buds start pushing, because they want maximum peat production. If you just have one or a few in your yard that are overgrown, you can prune out dead wood and shape them most any time. Just know if you cut them back too much you might have limited pear production this year.
The best time to prune is in the months ending with an R. September, October, November, December. By trimming during these months you will not have to worry about cutting off fruit buds.
I have meet many people that wait until spring to trim their fruit trees and then complain about not having any fruit.
You have probably heard that it is best to wait until the leaves fall off so you can see the structure of the tree clearly.
It does help, but isn't totally necessary. It helps on very thick trees to be able to locate crossover branches for removal, etc.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qU3CENlgXlI
Pruning a pear tree begins in late winter before the buds begin to swell. Earlier pruning may encourage excessive vegetative growth and suckering in spring and summer. It also increases the chances of winter injury to the pruning sites. Limit spring and summer pruning to light thinning, and try to avoid trimming pear trees after midsummer. Pear tree pruning also begins at planting time. Cut back young, unbranched trees 33 to 36 inches above the ground to encourage good branching. If your new tree has plenty of branches, remove those that are less than 18 inches from the ground and those with crotches of less than 60 degrees.As a young pear tree grows, the main stem of the plant should always be taller than the surrounding branches. Pear tree branches naturally grow upright, but the branches spread as it begins to bear fruit. The weight of the fruit pulls the branch down into a more horizontal position. You can help this process by pulling the branch down and tying it to a stake in the ground with twine. Pad the twine that encircles the branch to avoid damage. If you can’t achieve an angle of at least 60 degrees between the branch and the trunk of the tree, then remove the branch. Pruning and training to improve the spread of the branches increases the amount of sunlight that reaches the center of the tree. Your tree will produce fruit sooner and in greater quantities as a result. Keeping the canopy of the tree open makes it easier for sprays to reach every part of the tree. It also allows good air circulation around the branches, and this helps prevent diseases. Pruning wounds in older trees provide an entry point for fire blight, which is a devastating disease that can kill a tree. Limit pruning of mature trees in areas where fire blight is a problem. Use as few cuts as possible to remove damage and thin the canopy. Remove suckers that grow from the base of the tree or in the crotches as they appear.