How to get rid of Hawthorne trees suckers?

Do you/did you keep the main tree?----To control re-sprouting of aggressive trees and shrubs (hawthorn, holly, etc.) as well as larger-diameter aggressive vines (blackberry, wisteria) there is a non-chemical strategy that works, a chemical strategy that works, and a very common chemical strategy that doesn't work.

The non-chemical strategy Every time it sends up a shoot, prune it off. This strategy basically involves starving the plant to death: it costs the plant energy to send up each shoot, and if you cut off the shoot before the new leaves can start feeding new energy into the plant, the plant loses. But if you forget it, and allow new leaves to recharge the plant's resources, the plant wins, and you lose, and the clock starts over. success with cutting it back to the ground several times in the growing season for several seasons in a row. so long as you cut it back just after it leafs out in the spring and it's small or weak there is a chance it will die. If it is over a small area I’ve also used a shovel or a grubbing axe to cut the roots of the smaller ones to set them back. Unfortunately the only sure fire way found so far is with a lawnmower

Removal of tree and continual growth----The chemical strategy that doesn't work is to cut the plant, then go back later and treat the stump with an herbicide, even a strong or concentrated herbicide. Woody plants, it turns out, are very good at "compartmentalizing" a problem, even a very serious one. Within seconds, literally, of being cut, a woody plant or vine seals up the cut areas with residues that block the intake of the herbicide toxins into the remaining parts of the tree or vine.

The chemical strategy that works is to apply an appropriate concentrated herbicide IMMEDIATELY upon making the cut, before the plant has the (minimal) time it needs to block uptake via the severed circulatory system. (One published study says the window of opportunity for blackberry vines is 15 seconds; another author says that window is only four seconds!)

Recommended herbicides include a 20% concentration of glyphosate (start with the concentrated bottle that says "41%" and create a working solution by dluting 1:1 with water). Or use an 8% solution of triclopyr. In either case, you are starting with a bottle marked "concentrate", not with a pre-mixed spray bottle. In the bad old days the solution was applied with a small paint brush; today the weapon of choice is a cheap household hand spray bottle. And of course you should be wearing rubber gloves and eye protection.Round-Up works best.

When using any herbicide--or any garden chemical, even those marked "organic"-- ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW THE LABEL INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS. In addition, note that herbicides should NOT be used when air temperatures exceed 85 degrees, or will exceed that temperature in the next 8 or 12 hours. In hot weather, herbicides can evaporate and form a small toxic cloud that can drift for hundreds of feet.

I have also had success with using Roundup on freshly cut stumps of wild grapes. I leave enough stump to make a few fresh cuts if needed and coat the cut immediately. If new shoots start, I rip them off right away. It took a long time to get rid of the mother plant, but it has been gone now for four years.

To remove suckers at the base of a trunk, use a hatchet to hook around the suckers and pull them off. The blade will prune those that do not pull off more easily. Use pruners or the saw of the billhook saw to clean up any stubs that are left over. To remove suckers under the soil, first try to pull them up.Oct 6, 2016

How to Remove Suckers from Trees (and Why They are There in the ...

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