Use a liquid with enzymes such as Out! Pet stain remover. I find it not only eliminates stains, but also odors. In my experience, this has kept cats and dogs from using that spot again. Seems to be absent from sores these days.
I have been ordering it from Amazon because all the others I’ve tried have not worked as well.
I strongly discourage you from using any of the products which foam or have “oxi” or peroxide. . Those remove color and don’t work as well. (Even the “Out!” brand). Even Walmart seems to carry the more expensive and less-effective types these days, and after 35+ years of fostering, I’ve tried them all. I pour the liquid Out! into a spray bottle so I won’t oversaturate. And its easy to retreat if required.
Sorry to go on in so long. I know how critical this issue can be. You’ll be happier once you conquer it!
I've been doing animal rescue/foster care for about 40yrs. & I totally agree with Sandy S. Do not use any cleaners with ammonia base it increases ammonia in pee.If you aren't sure about it don't use it. It is absolutely essential to use a cleaner that can break down the uric acid. Soap, vinegar, baking soda, ammonia, chlorine, and hydrogen peroxide (to name the most common cleaners) simply are not chemically capable of breaking down the uric acid in cat pee. These cleaners and deodorizers only temporarily make the smell go away and appear to work because they do clean up the other components of the cat urine. But when exposed to humidity, the uric acid salts cause the uric acid crystals to reform. This process releases the smell again; not always at levels detectable to the human nose, but the dogs/cats’ more sensitive noses can smell it. And the scent of their urine on floor/outside of the litter box encourages many to continue urinating same area, often with their families left scratching their heads wondering why.
The only thing that will break down the uric acid to permanently remove the smell is an enzyme cleaner. The enzymes break down uric acid into carbon dioxide and ammonia, both gasses that then easily evaporate. This is why it is also essential to allow the enzyme cleaner to air dry. It needs the “natural” drying time to break down the uric acid salts, allowing the resulting gases to evaporate.
Not all enzyme cleaners are equally effective. Good enzyme cleaners are typically a bit more expensive. Cheap ones will work, but need to be reapplied over and over (and probably end up costing as much as the more expensive enzyme cleaners). Enzyme cleaners this author is aware of that work well and reliably include Nok Out, Urine Off, Stinkers and Anti-Icky Poo.
Of course any cleaner needs to be used properly. Most enzyme cleaners come in a spray bottle. This is deceptive, because just spraying a light layer of enzyme cleaner over a urine stain will not result in complete cleaning of that spot. Cat pee wicks, and unless the enzyme cleaner completely envelopes all of the cat pee, even it won’t work. “Spraying” doesn’t work. Dousing, pouring, and soaking are required when cleaning up cat urine.
To properly use an enzyme cleaner on a fresh stain:
1. Blot up as much of the urine as you can before applying anything.
2. Soak the affected area with the enzyme cleaner.
3. Let the enzyme cleaner sit for 10 to 15 minutes.
4. Blot up as much of the enzyme cleaner as possible.
5. Leave the enzyme cleaner to air dry.
Covering the area loosely with something is always a good idea. This will not only help prevent the cat from attempting to pee on the same spot while the enzyme cleaner does its work; it will stop family members from stepping or sitting on the wet spot. Some people lay aluminum foil down over the area; other recommendations include an upside down laundry basket or an aluminum baking sheet.
The same basic procedures apply for an old stain. But be aware that an old stain may require two or three full cycles of enzyme cleaner application (allowing it to completely dry between applications) in order to completely clean the stain.
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Use a liquid with enzymes such as Out! Pet stain remover. I find it not only eliminates stains, but also odors. In my experience, this has kept cats and dogs from using that spot again. Seems to be absent from sores these days.
I have been ordering it from Amazon because all the others I’ve tried have not worked as well.
I strongly discourage you from using any of the products which foam or have “oxi” or peroxide. . Those remove color and don’t work as well. (Even the “Out!” brand). Even Walmart seems to carry the more expensive and less-effective types these days, and after 35+ years of fostering, I’ve tried them all. I pour the liquid Out! into a spray bottle so I won’t oversaturate. And its easy to retreat if required.
Sorry to go on in so long. I know how critical this issue can be. You’ll be happier once you conquer it!
I use Natures Miracle sold at pet stores.
I've been doing animal rescue/foster care for about 40yrs. & I totally agree with Sandy S. Do not use any cleaners with ammonia base it increases ammonia in pee.If you aren't sure about it don't use it. It is absolutely essential to use a cleaner that can break down the uric acid. Soap, vinegar, baking soda, ammonia, chlorine, and hydrogen peroxide (to name the most common cleaners) simply are not chemically capable of breaking down the uric acid in cat pee. These cleaners and deodorizers only temporarily make the smell go away and appear to work because they do clean up the other components of the cat urine. But when exposed to humidity, the uric acid salts cause the uric acid crystals to reform. This process releases the smell again; not always at levels detectable to the human nose, but the dogs/cats’ more sensitive noses can smell it. And the scent of their urine on floor/outside of the litter box encourages many to continue urinating same area, often with their families left scratching their heads wondering why.
The only thing that will break down the uric acid to permanently remove the smell is an enzyme cleaner. The enzymes break down uric acid into carbon dioxide and ammonia, both gasses that then easily evaporate. This is why it is also essential to allow the enzyme cleaner to air dry. It needs the “natural” drying time to break down the uric acid salts, allowing the resulting gases to evaporate.
Not all enzyme cleaners are equally effective. Good enzyme cleaners are typically a bit more expensive. Cheap ones will work, but need to be reapplied over and over (and probably end up costing as much as the more expensive enzyme cleaners). Enzyme cleaners this author is aware of that work well and reliably include Nok Out, Urine Off, Stinkers and Anti-Icky Poo.
Of course any cleaner needs to be used properly. Most enzyme cleaners come in a spray bottle. This is deceptive, because just spraying a light layer of enzyme cleaner over a urine stain will not result in complete cleaning of that spot. Cat pee wicks, and unless the enzyme cleaner completely envelopes all of the cat pee, even it won’t work. “Spraying” doesn’t work. Dousing, pouring, and soaking are required when cleaning up cat urine.
To properly use an enzyme cleaner on a fresh stain:
1. Blot up as much of the urine as you can before applying anything.
2. Soak the affected area with the enzyme cleaner.
3. Let the enzyme cleaner sit for 10 to 15 minutes.
4. Blot up as much of the enzyme cleaner as possible.
5. Leave the enzyme cleaner to air dry.
Covering the area loosely with something is always a good idea. This will not only help prevent the cat from attempting to pee on the same spot while the enzyme cleaner does its work; it will stop family members from stepping or sitting on the wet spot. Some people lay aluminum foil down over the area; other recommendations include an upside down laundry basket or an aluminum baking sheet.
The same basic procedures apply for an old stain. But be aware that an old stain may require two or three full cycles of enzyme cleaner application (allowing it to completely dry between applications) in order to completely clean the stain.
Here is what works for me! https://simpledecoratingtips.com/2018/12/31/how-to-remove-pet-urine/
I use vinegar