DIY Live Edge Mirror

8 Materials
$60
4 Hours
Medium

I came across a picture on Pinterest of a live edge mirror that someone was selling on Etsy for $950. I liked the idea of having a live edge mirror above the dresser that I’ve built few weeks ago. So I decided to build one that would match the white wash effect of the dresser drawer boards.


I already had a mirror in my shed from an old sliding closet door, so I used it for this project. Besides the mirror, it cost me about $60 to make this live edge mirror. I had to purchase a full sheet of ½” plywood for the backboard, which left me with some extra material. But I’m sure I’ll use it for my next project.

Tools for this project

•  Drill

•  Miter Saw

•  Tape Measure

•  Table Saw

Jig Saw

•  Level

•  Sander

•  Stud Finder


Material List

• 1x12x6' (x1)

• 4'x8' - 1/2" Plywood (x1)

• 4"x58" - 1/4" Plywood (x1)

• 66"x30" Mirror (x1)

•  1 1/4" Pocket hole screws

•  2 1/2" Wood Screws

•  Washers (x4)

• 1 1/2"x2" Simpson Strong-Tie Angle (x4)


Step-1 Backboard for the Mirror

Depending on your mirror size these dimensions might be different for you. In this case, I'm using 66" x 30" mirror, so all of the dimensions are based from the overall mirror size. The first step is to cut 1/2" backboard plywood that would be attached behind the mirror. The plywood needs to be 4" taller than the mirror and 8" shorter in length than the mirror. The total dimensions of the plywood is 58" x 34"

Step-2 Cut Live Edge

Next take 1x12 and cut it to the full length of the mirror, which is 66". With a pencil draw two parallel live edge designs on the 1x12 so that you’ll get upper and lower boards. Make sure that the pencil lines do not overlap each other. Follow the pencil lines with a jig saw.



Step-3 Stain and Paint Live Edge Boards

Once the live edge boards are cut, send the boards to get rid of rough edges after jig saw cut. To stain the boards, use alternating Classic Gray and Jacobean stain for the first layer. Then with a dry brush lightly brush over the stain with plain white paint creating white wash affect you see in the picture.


Step-4 Attach Bottom Live Edge Board

Cut 2" wide by 58" long strip of 1/4" plywood. This 1/4" plywood could be in shorter sections (if 58" long piece is not available) or a full 58" long piece. Sandwich the 2" strip of plywood between the 1/2" backboard plywood and live edge board. Make sure all three pieces are centered. The live edge board will be 4" longer on both sides of the backboard. Screw in 1 1/4" Pocket hole screws from the back to hold the three pieces together. You will have 1/4" gap between the live edge board and back plywood for the mirror to slide in.


Step-5 Attach Backboard to the Wall

Now it’s time to attach the backboard to the wall. First, take a Level and draw 66" horizontal line on the wall. The line will indicate where the top of the backboard will be attached. Next, using Stud Finder, locate and mark the studs right above the horizontal line. Then, similar to step 4, cut a 58" long 2" wide strip of 1/4" plywood. Before attaching the backboard to the wall, place a Washer in the back of the plywood. This will make a small gap between the plywood and sheetrock for a metal angle to slide in, see step 6. Use 2 1/2" Wood Screws to attach backboard to the wall. Make sure you hit the studs. The mirror is very heavy and need to be attached to studs not just sheetrock.


Step-6 Attach 1 ½” x 2 Simpson Strong-Tie to Upper Live Edge Board

Take the upper live edge board and attach 1 1/2" x 2" Simpson Strong-Tie 18-gauge galvanized steel angle on the top. The 1 1/2" part of the angle will be on top and 2" is on the back side. Make the edge of the galvanized angle flush with the front of the live edge board. Use 1 1/4" Pocket hole screws for attaching the angle since the screws have a flat head.


Step-7 Place the Mirror and Top Live Edge in Place

And for the final step, slide in the mirror behind the bottom live edge, and then slide the top live edge behind the backboard. You're done with DIY Live Edge Mirror.


If you have any suggestions or questions, leave a comment below.

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Have a question about this project?

2 questions
  • Lita Parish
    Lita Parish
    on Oct 14, 2019

    I’m also going to try this. It’s beautiful! My only observation; I know the wood is pressed up against the glass. But, because the glass is about 1/4 or 1/8 inch thick are you able to actually see behind the wood border when looking down into the mirror or looking up at an angle? I would think you would need to finish both front and back of the wood border to avoid seeing raw material on the back reflection. I didn’t read all the written instruction so you may have addressed this.

  • BrokeCrazyLady
    BrokeCrazyLady
    on Oct 5, 2020

    Why not use a 6" piece and only make one rough cut... then flip one of the pieces over so it isn't obvious?

    • Lynn
      Lynn
      on Oct 5, 2020

      My thoughts exactly, even when you flip it if something stands out too much then make a few modifications. Much faster than making 2 full cuts.

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