If you are also stripping the stain off you’ll need to do that first with sandpaper. Using an electric random orbit sander makes the job a lot easier. You’ll need to do a bit of hand sanding too but this should be minimal. Best to do the sanding outside because the dust can cover everything around the table if you do it inside. Next comes the topcoat. This is what seals the wood. You have several choices here (polyurethane, varnish, lacquer, shellac, etc.). Many people choose polyurethane because it’s a product they’ve heard of a lot. I, however, don’t use it in my shop, nor do I recommend it. The reason is because it dries very slowly. This is called ‘open time’. Having a long open time allows a lot of dust, dirt, and debris to settle on the finish. The result is a lot of work sanding it out. I would highly recommend using lacquer for the topcoat. I use Minwax satin brushing lacquer. I have spray equipment, that gives me a flawless finish, but as the name implies, it works well with a paint brush. Definitely do this part outside. It has a self leveling compound that allows it to dry without leaving brush marks. I recommend three coats because it is a horizontal surface. Sand lightly between coats. I use ‘fine’ sanding sponges for this. This will give you a beautiful finish that will last for years.
I was wondering if you could help me with something -- I have an entirely oak kitchen. I know it's the rage now to paint or gel stain cabinets. I've been considering ...
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My son kept his drink glass on an old magazine on top of my old wood coffee table. When i removed the magazine (after a day) the magazine covers had dried to the wood...
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If you are also stripping the stain off you’ll need to do that first with sandpaper. Using an electric random orbit sander makes the job a lot easier. You’ll need to do a bit of hand sanding too but this should be minimal. Best to do the sanding outside because the dust can cover everything around the table if you do it inside. Next comes the topcoat. This is what seals the wood. You have several choices here (polyurethane, varnish, lacquer, shellac, etc.). Many people choose polyurethane because it’s a product they’ve heard of a lot. I, however, don’t use it in my shop, nor do I recommend it. The reason is because it dries very slowly. This is called ‘open time’. Having a long open time allows a lot of dust, dirt, and debris to settle on the finish. The result is a lot of work sanding it out. I would highly recommend using lacquer for the topcoat. I use Minwax satin brushing lacquer. I have spray equipment, that gives me a flawless finish, but as the name implies, it works well with a paint brush. Definitely do this part outside. It has a self leveling compound that allows it to dry without leaving brush marks. I recommend three coats because it is a horizontal surface. Sand lightly between coats. I use ‘fine’ sanding sponges for this. This will give you a beautiful finish that will last for years.
Check in to General Finishes Arm R Seal. It's seals wood from getting wet. :)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANLI382/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00ANLI382&linkCode=as2&tag=phoenixrefini-20&linkId=45a9036d51cd615d05a8b64e3c293079
Wet-proof to me means a “marine varnish” as in for marine/boat use.
Some have high VOC’s and I would read labels. I would also determine how long it needs it to “cure” and where I’d do this.