How do I restore an antique cherry table?

Hi, Ellen!

You are absolutely on the right track! Once the table is stripped and sanded, it is ready for stain and sealer. I like to use an old t-shirt or washcloth to apply the stain, then apply the sealer with a sponge brush. I hope this helps!

Sand last. You'll know if all finish is off if you sprinkle water on it and it still needs up. I usually wash it down several times with lacquer thinner until rag is clean. When sand do it by hand in the direction of grain only. Wipe down again and ready to stain. Do NOT use a stain that has finish it it. That is for amateurs and gives a blotchy finish. Use a penetrating or gel stain only - oil based. If you can spray the top coat on that would be best, use a sanding sealer. Let dry and sand again with 220. Will create a lot of soft white dust. Ok, wipe clean with a tact cloth. Apply 2 coats of clear lacquer in a soft sheen. If can't spray, apply oil based polyurethane. First coat sand with 220 paper. 2nd coat sand with 000steel wool. 3rd coat. You are done! Let dry and cure at least 1 full week before you sit anything on it. Enjoy your refurbished heirloom.

I agree with Cher. You are doing it right. Clean the table well after sanding. A damp cloth will work. Kelli seems to be obsessed with oil based products. You can use latex stain. That's what I use. The three coats of a water based poly. Oil based poly has a yellow cast and does yellow over time. Water based does not. Dries faster. I like Minwax products.

I would stain the top and paint the base. I love the look of stain and paint. Top would hold up better with stain and sealer.