Build a Storage Bed Featuring Scrap Wood

9 Materials
2 Weeks

Welcome to the end of week three in the Fall One Room Challenge. For those of you visiting for the first time, I’m Michelle – and I bring DIY to life here on Breaking Down the Box. I have been transforming our master bedroom from a drab, forgotten afterthought to a gorgeous, Country-French retreat over the past three weeks.

This week was week three of the six week challenge and it was ALL ABOUT THE STRESS. I'm talking lunches-made-of-snack-packs-and-crackers-not-enough-time-to-finish-dishes stress. I'm not entirely sure I will finish everything on time, but I will be driving hard to get there! This past week, in addition to the stress, I focused almost entirely on finishing my scrap wood platform storage bed! I am thrilled with how it turned out - so worth it!

This was another build plan from Ana White - she has so many great plans out there! Just like the cabin bed, though, I had a few details I wanted to share with you along the way.

Step 1: Check out the plan and purchase your materials.

You may need to purchase additional 1×3, 1×4, or other sizes lumber for the faces of your drawers. If you have enough 1x scrap wood hanging around, that’s awesome. I think I split the difference and probably took some boards from my upcoming barn door build.

Step 2: Cut your boards for the side benches, which are detailed in the Queen scrap storage bed plan.

  • 2 – 3/4″ plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 62 1/2″
  • 6 – 3/4″ plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 15 3/4″
  • 8 – 1×4 @ 30 1/8″
  • 4 – 1×2 @ 16 1/2″
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 61″
  • 2 – 1×4 @ 61″

Side Bench Drawers

  • 8 – 1×8 @ 15 3/4″
  • 8 – 1×8 @ 27 5/8″
  • 4 – 1/4″ plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 29 1/8″

Step 3: Assemble the two side benches.

The 62 1/2″ plywood serves as the top piece with the 15 3/4″ x 15 3/4″ pieces serve as the legs. They are stabilized with the shorter 1×4 boards between the legs and finally tied together with the long 1×4 board across the front. The 1×2 boards trim out the side edges.

I used 3/4″ pocket holes and assembled using wood glue, clamps and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. I left the pocket holes facing out, per the plan’s recommendations, because you will be putting a “face” on everything.

Step 4: Cut Your Boards for the End Bench

  • 1 – 3/4″ plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 74 1/2″
  • 3 – 3/4″ plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 15 3/4″
  • 4 – 1×4 @ 36 1/8″
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 16 1/2″
  • 1 – 1×2 @ 73″
  • 1 – 1×4 @ 73″

End Bench Drawers

  • 4 – 1×8 @ 15 3/4″
  • 4 – 1×8 @ 33 5/8″
  • 2 – 1/4″ plywood @ 15 3/4″ x 35 1/8″

Step 5: Assemble Your End Bench

It is exactly the same assembly as the side benches, just with longer boards!

Step 6: Assemble Your Drawer Shells

The drawers were pretty straight forward to build. The 1 x 8 boards @ 15 3/4″ go on the outside and the longer boards sit between them, tied in with 3/4″ pocket holes and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Copious wood glue throughout!

Step 7: Trim Out the Sides of the Benches

The sides of each bench took 4 – 1×4 boards cut at 15 3/4″ and 1 – 1×3 board cut at 15 3/4″. Honestly I don’t know if this lumber was included in the original plan or not, but I would err on the safe side and say no. You attach these with 1 1/4″ finish nails and wood glue.

Step 8: Hang Your Drawers

I bought the 16″ Euro Slider Bottom mount drawer hardware at Lowe’s and it came with the necessary hardware to attach it. It also came with great instructions that I had to painstakingly follow the first time.

My recommendation here is to, once you have your initial measurement for how high up you want to mount the slide on the inside of the bench, cut a spacer board to help you line everything up exactly the same throughout all of the other benches. It was so much easier than measuring each and every time.

Once your drawers are in, you can move into the fun/slow part!

Step 9: Build Your Drawer Faces and Finish Everything Out

This part was like a jigsaw puzzle with the leftover scrap wood pieces I had hanging around. It was pretty challenging to find pieces that would work together. I ended up making a lot of cuts and even ripping some boards with my circular saw (I haven’t used that thing in forever)!

Dry fit your materials first – that way you can see if it will work out in the long run. Ensure the tops of both drawers are going to match once everything is in place as well.

I stacked all of my pieces, cut as I went to make things fit and when they finally did, I numbered them in order of assembly – left to right.

I stained each piece separately, varying the stain and length of time it was on to ensure a nice variety of color. Then, I used 1 1/4″ finish nails and wood glue to assemble, clamping where I could to ensure the pieces wouldn’t wobble around.

Finish all of your benches and drawer faces using a stain of your choice and two coats of polyurethane. I filled in 0 pocket holes, which was nice for once! I figured the backs of the drawers won’t be seeing anyone, so why not?

Step 10: Cut Your Wood for the Tie Ins and Assemble Center Foot

You will need:

  • 2 – 1x4s @ 62 1/2″
  • 12 – 1x3s @ 42 1/2″
  • 2 – 2×4 @ 64″
  • 4 – 2×4 @ 12 3/4″

The center foot is added support for your bed slats that will span the length between your side benches. First, lay your 64″ 2×4 down on its side and clamp/glue the 12 3/4″ pieces perpendicular to it. When you attach the other longer 2×4 it will resemble a ladder.

Step 11: Assemble the Bed

Place your center foot up against the middle of the end bench, spanning it along the side benches to support the 1×3 boards that will serve as bet slats.

Secure the center foot to the bench with wood screws.

Secure the 1×4 boards to the backs of each side bench, leaving room on top for the 1×3 slats to lay flat on top of them, flush with the tops of the benches. I glued and clamped first and then used interior wood screws to secure.

Finally, lay down the slats, leaving 3″ between each one. Secure to the center foot using interior wood screws. I think we used 2″ construction screws because that was what was on hand in our shop.

For the sides of the slats, attach by first pre-drilling so the 1×3 boards won’t crack when you drive a screw into them. Then attach with your screws and you are ready to put the mattress on!

Honestly, I felt the same way after this week. You won’t need a box spring any longer unless you just really prefer awkwardly high beds with an exposed box spring.

Step 12: Attach Drawer Hardware

I got my drawer hardware from Amazon– it was half the price of what I could find in stores and came to me in one day. They had multiple finishes to choose from as well! Here’s another fun fact – you can get your Kreg pocket hole screws for much cheaper too on Amazon.

There you have it - I'm still always amazed the things I build will support actual humans. How cool is that?

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Have a question about this project?

3 of 5 questions
  • Heje
    on Oct 30, 2019

    Is the rug there to stay or will it get moved? Would it be easy to add a head board? Love the different colors of stain!

    • When I first took the pictures of the build, I had our old rug in place. When our new rug came, I disassembled the bed, moved each of the benches off of the rug and rolled it up. After putting the new rug down, I reassembled it. It was not bad, but a little more work than just a normal metal frame. I actually did install a headboard! I took out the drawers closest to the headboard and made the holes for the bolts to go through - then it bolted right to the bench!

  • Deb
    on Nov 1, 2019

    Super cool project and the wood is beautiful

  • Karyn
    on Nov 21, 2019

    So this questIon has nothing to do with the bed frame which I’d GORGEOUS!

    i would love to know about the king size top bed covers. 😊

    my bed is king I can’t find ANYTHING labeled as king long enough or wide enough...

    except my flat sheet that hangs out both sides & bottom ☹️

    these look like they’d early touching the floor ❤️

Join the conversation

4 of 42 comments
  • Kaci
    on Oct 24, 2020

    It's lovely...


    I remember reading in a feng shui book that having anything stored beneath the bed creates a "stuck zone" that inhibits the flow of energy.

    • I definitely don't like to store things under the bed unless it's built in like this one - it collects all of my dog hair. Stuck zone for sure!

  • Mary Russell
    Mary Russell
    on Oct 24, 2020

    I found out real quick not to bring the drawers /underframing all the way out to edge of bed.I was always banging my toes into the things.Remade the underside smaller so my feet had room to actually fit under bed when reaching over making bed;etc.

    • I used the Euro-slides (I think that is what they were called?) They were the less expensive ones. I'm currently building my sister the same type of bed, and opted for those metal rolling ones that extend all the way - I agree well worth it! They are made so much sturdier!

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