How can I repair this cedar and steel privacy fence?
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The cedar & steel frame privacy fence is showing its’ age & four reamer-type self-tapping screws have fallen out and their cedar boards with them. The only thing I can think of is fill the threads with exterior grade Liquid Nails and the back of the boards and the steel frame as well. What do you think?
Front & back views of failed screws.
6 answers
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Hi , I would go grab some more hanger (metal ones for 2x4) and some new 2x4, cut it to fill the gap and and nail the cedar boards on to it. that will keep you going till it can be replaced
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More pictures would really help!
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Can't tell by the photo. If you didn't use screws with wings to ream out the hole in the wood without catching the tread then it wouldn't properly fasten to the metal. The wings allow for no predrilling the wood. Also some wood to metal screws have nibs in the head to create a countersink. This tightens the wood to the metal so the screws don't loosen and fail. Construction adhesive may help but the holding power is in the screw. It's possible the screw treads were dulled by the wood just enough and limited the gripping to the metal.
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Can you put new tek screws through the boards and frame in a different place than where they were originally? If so, I'd do that and be sure you do NOT drill pilot holes or they won't work as designed.
My next thought would be to move up to a larger size tek screw in the same holes but they may not work as they should unless you move up in size significantly.
Otherwise, short of purchasing new wood you'll have to fill the holes with something. I'd think perhaps epoxy or other really hard substance once dry.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fcHw8mMk8c&app=desktop
https://www.allpointsfasteners.com/blog/how-to-use-tek-screws
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Did the screw itself fail or did the hole that in the steel structure start to rust?
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Liquid nails will not hold for more than 1 year due to the moisture of the wood and the variation in thermal expansion between the metal and the wood. I would prime the old holes on the steel with rustoleum to be safe then use a screws that is a little wider. If the cedar was new- I would also make sure to use screws rated to be used with cedar since the natural chemicals in the cedar can accelerate oxidation in the fastener. Stainless steel is a good option for new cedar projects. In your case, most exterior rated screws should suffice.
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Thanks, everyone, I’m going to get a box of larger tek screws.
The surface rust is minimal.
All can think is that their pilot holes were too big.
I did try putting the still-useful old screw into a new place in the steel rail. It would even bite without a new pilot hole and I’m not interested in crouching in 30 degree weather to do the lower screw holes all over again.
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Thanks. I failed to show the bigger picture. I’ll get a better pic tomorrow.
there are 2x2 horizontal hollow steel frames top & bottom, 5’ apart. The verticals are hollow steel 4x4’s.
Mortar works on Steel. It is an excellent fastener solution that is low cost and more durable than most non-galvanized fasteners. Why? Mortar does not Rust and in contrast to dowels, Mortar does not warp neither. But worst comes to worst you can always use Steel Pipe and fill it with concrete before you sledge them in.
How about longer screws?