How to Apply Peel and Stick Picture Moulding With Scissors

5 Materials
$60
4 Hours
Medium

You know that time I created my own shiplap without any power tools? Let’s just say I used a similar process for this DIY moulding. Except rather than using peel and stick vinyl flooring, I’m using peel and stick picture moulding! You won’t believe how easy it was. The best part? Anyone at any skill level can apply peel and stick picture moulding with scissors.

That being said, this DIY peel and stick picture moulding isn’t for every project.

I’ve shared MY OPINIONS below of where and where NOT to use this stuff.

WHERE TO USE PEEL AND STICK MOULDING:

  • Decorative accents on a wall (like picture frame moulding)
  • For a semi permanent or temporary project (like a nursery because we all know nursery’s just last a few years)
  • It’s a great option for people who rent and can’t do anything permanent to the walls
  • DIY picture frames (hmmmm, future project?)

WHERE NOT TO USE PEEL AND STICK MOULDING:

  • As a baseboard or crown moulding (it’s foam, enough said)
  • For a permanent wall project (it could be permanent I guess, but if you know that it will never be replaced then I would invest in the real stuff)

Let’s take a look at this moulding product.

The way it was packaged created a problem because the moulding wrapped tightly in the center had been stretched. It looked like this;

I obviously could not use the pieces that looked like this, so I ended up discarding about 1/6 of the product. This product was very affordable, so I wasn’t too upset about it. After all, I knew that this project would be a huge experiment so I didn’t expect too much.

After you've gathered materials then it's time to begin!

HOW TO APPLY PEEL AND STICK PICTURE MOULDING (FOAM MOULDING);

  1. Mark where you want the moulding to be applied on the wall
  2. Measure the peel and stick moulding
  3. Lay your moulding in the miter box and make a mark (45 degree angle) where you want the first cut to be made
  4. Cut the moulding with scissors on the line
  5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the other end of the moulding
  6. Create a box with your moulding
  7. Make sure the edges meet as closely as possible
  8. Once you’ve applied the moulding, caulk around all sides
  9. Sand the caulk once it’s dry if necessary. Note; you can sand the caulk but not the foam
  10. Prime and paint!

See my blog post for a video all about it


Note; you can see above where the bottom pieces look a little crooked.I had to readjust it a few times and make a few more cuts to get it to fit correctly.

THIS IS THE HARDEST PART ABOUT APPLYING THE FOAM MOULDING; CREATING A PERFECTLY STRAIGHT LINE.


Ta Dah! A job nearly done. Now it’s time to Caulk.

Caulking the foam moulding was tricky because it’s not like real moulding where you can sand down the wood. I had to be extra careful to just get the caulk (or wood filler) in the open space between the ends. Otherwise, once the caulk dries on the foam it’s really hard to remove.


Oh, by the way; I went back and forth about paint colors. I ultimately decided on a plain white. I’ve got some dark colors in the room with the black and wood tone dressers, so I didn’t want to compete with those.


The picture above is after two coats of paint plus primer. I only needed two coats.


READY TO SEE IT! I’M SO EXCITED WITH HOW MY DIY FOAM PICTURE FRAME MOULDING TURNED OUT.


I hope you've enjoyed this project as much as I did to create it!

See more of my home projects HERE!

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Lindsey

Want more details about this and other DIY projects? Check out my blog post!

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2 of 18 comments
  • Very stylish and inspiring. Think I might have a plan where to use it. Thanks for sharing. Don't you just love Wish?


    I just bought an Asian "stick on the wall" scene which might look good within the framework.

  • Monica Breedlove
    on Jan 24, 2020

    Awesome sauce. I’m going to try it on an interior door, but with liquid nails, and then I’m painting the entire door black.

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